Type: Trad
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 164 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A fun corner crack that is variable in size and steepness. Mostly wide. Good liebacks and stacks.

Location

The corner right or Scarface.

Protection

In camalots: #2-#5, double up on #3-#4. Optional #6.

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A view down from the chains shared by Scarface and Boy with a Coin.
A view down from the chains shared by Scarface…
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1 Comment

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RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
Great route to hone some of your wide crack technique. An awkward, slightly overhung corner crack off of the ground turns into 'enjoyable' wide terrain with the occasional pod. The consistently sized crack will suddenly reverse direction and turn into an overhang that will take you to the chains shared with Scarface.

Definitely an interesting OW introduction without ever feeling too much like an OW brawl-fest. Lots of butterfly stacking! Feels awesomely secure if you play your cards right.

Notes:

- Gear: one #2, double #3, triple #4, one #5, one (optional) #6 (can be a nice peace-of-mind)
- Wide gear can be trolleyed a ways, if necessary. Apr 14, 2015