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Boy with a Coin

5.10+, Trad,  Avg: 3.4 from 14 votes
FA: Mike Dobie
International > Asia > China > Yunnan Province > Lijiang Area > Liming (黎明) > Lisu Area > Pinecrest Buttress

Description

A fun corner crack that is variable in size and steepness. Mostly wide. Good liebacks and stacks.

Location

The corner right or Scarface.

Protection

In camalots: #2-#5, double up on #3-#4. Optional #6.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view down from the chains shared by Scarface and Boy with a Coin.
[Hide Photo] A view down from the chains shared by Scarface and Boy with a Coin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryder Stroud
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Great route to hone some of your wide crack technique. An awkward, slightly overhung corner crack off of the ground turns into 'enjoyable' wide terrain with the occasional pod. The consistently sized crack will suddenly reverse direction and turn into an overhang that will take you to the chains shared with Scarface.

Definitely an interesting OW introduction without ever feeling too much like an OW brawl-fest. Lots of butterfly stacking! Feels awesomely secure if you play your cards right.

Notes:

- Gear: one #2, double #3, triple #4, one #5, one (optional) #6 (can be a nice peace-of-mind)
- Wide gear can be trolleyed a ways, if necessary. Apr 14, 2015