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Routes in Pinecrest Buttress

Boy with a Coin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Foe-Hammer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Owl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reckoning, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scarface II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 165 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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3 Opinions

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Description

This climb packs a lot of variety for its short length. Super fun - get on it! The crux is a short with bomber gear, so don't let the grade scare you away (I'd call it 5.11+).

A wide start leads to intermittent hand jams into a vertical off-fingers changing corner and a beautiful, steep finger crack.

The original anchor now only represents half of the route. Rather than clipping the anchor, move right along discontinuous cracks, using the last options for protection before committing to difficult face climbing up to a bolt and exposed arete climbing to the upper anchor. Solid 5.12c.

Protection

.3 to #1, double .5s. A #2 or, better, #5 can protect the start. Double up if you plan to go to the top anchor.

Photos

Bring some nuts for the extension!
A set of wires is also useful Apr 2, 2016
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
A great first 5.12a (it was my first after a lot of 'work'! =D)

The route starts with an awkwardly wide crack that convinces you to dive deeper to find good jams (beware of stuck helmets!). The crack narrows before reaching a big, featured pod where you can rest if you are creative. Pull into a barn door crack that leads up to a second bulge and the route's finale, marked by a square-ish pod. Lock your way to the chains in this thin crack and hold off the pump. The route can be continued from the chains up and right as part of the new (as of March 2015) Reckoning extension.

Notes:

- Gear: one #.4, two #.5s, one #1, one #3, one (optional) #4, one #5

- The FA-er, Mike Dobie, recently put up a .12c extension that traverses right off of the anchor and climb towards a (distant) bolt. Head around a very airy arete to the chains. It is done as a single pitch extension from the ground on the original Reckoning. Go do it! He says it's awesome! Apr 14, 2015