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Routes in Pinecrest Buttress

Boy with a Coin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Foe-Hammer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Great Owl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reckoning, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scarface II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Dobie, 2011
Page Views: 146 total · 4/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Jun 3, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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A route with a wide variety of crack technique, Foe Hammer will keep you thinking of what to do next. Begin to the left of Lollipop, the start of Back to the Primitive, and a 1-minute walk right (and uphill) from Boy with a Coin and Scarface.

Start in a right-leaning, wide crack–you can get a cheater start with some of the blocks in front of the crack next to the belay, too. Jam the wide crack with butterfly and double stacks up to some small edges and slopey stances. Pass a small bulge and the wide crack will suddenly cut left on awkward but easier terrain.

Follow the crack as it thins to hands and eventually fingers. Climb up through an S-curved, right-facing dihedral, making increasingly strenuous and exposed moves. Power through a few burly moves to a sudden expansion in the crack. If you are flexible, you may be able to do a crazy stem on the face. Turn the bulge in the corner to get up to a sloping rest stance. Surmount one more steep section to gain a slabby corner (a bit lichen-y) and follow that corner to the top of Pinecrest Buttress.

Rap the route from a slung tree to the climbers left at the top of Pinecrest. One 60m will barely make it down. A 70m will comfortably make it back to the start of the route.

NB: This route is best if your belayer follows and cleans the route. Rap cleaning the route is a pain because of the location of the tree belay at the top of the Buttress.


To the left of the start of Back to the Primitive (Lollipop 5.8 variation start), and right and uphill of Scarface II and Boy with a Coin


TCUs 0-1, doubles .3-1, single 2, single 3, Single or double 4, single or double 5


RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
Route was originally rated 5.11d, but is probably a grade or two easier. It has a very distinct, well-defined crux (unless you loathe wide technique, then there are 2...). The top could use a bit more cleaning, but the hard climbing is over by then. Interesting route that will probably be better if more people climb it. Definitely worth doing if you can spend at the grade! Jun 3, 2015

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