Open with restrictions:
Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. However, from 15 May to 15 Sept, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon.
Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Follow the same start as Fox Confessor till the third bolt. At this point head straight up into an amazing kneebar (rt). Rest up to be prepared for two high cruxs on the climb with a decent recovery in between.
While lowering clip into the bolt by the kneebar or below. Failure to do so will result in a bath in the falls. There are multiple leaver-biners on the climb to assist with cleaning. Recommend cleaning entirely from the top.
Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.
Stick clip first bolt.
8 to 9 draws. The last bolt is not necessary at the time of posting.
Keep an eye on the hanger under the final roof, it has become loose before.