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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Ryan Cowell
Page Views: 1,741 total, 33/month
Shared By: Ryan C. on Aug 13, 2013
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Open with restrictions: Details

Description

Follow the same start as Fox Confessor till the third bolt. At this point head straight up into an amazing kneebar (rt). Rest up to be prepared for two high cruxs on the climb with a decent recovery in between.

While lowering clip into the bolt by the kneebar or below. Failure to do so will result in a bath in the falls. There are multiple leaver-biners on the climb to assist with cleaning. Recommend cleaning entirely from the top.

Location

Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.

Protection

Stick clip first bolt.
8 to 9 draws. The last bolt is not necessary at the time of posting.
Keep an eye on the hanger under the final roof, it has become loose before.
Craig Huang  
 
Grading Req is not so straightforward - how hard you find this climb is inversely proportional to your height. At 5'10" with a +4" ape, the roof pull (whether from under to the first jug or first to second jug) does not require a dyno - just keep those abs and core Tight and walk your feet up to the lip of the roof. However, if you cannot reach the first jug beyond the lip of the roof pseudo- or fully statically, then bless your soul...get ready to go all-points-off to a not-so-positive but big jug.

Grading rant aside, Requiem is rad. Rad. Breaks down into the start and roof boulders with likely the best (i.e. hands-free) kneebar you'll encounter at Willow. Heroic dyno prior to taking on the roof. Awesome! May 19, 2016
KurtH
  5.13+
KurtH  
  5.13+
Amazing climb - never done anything like this nor expect to again. Two huge feet cutting cruxes over a waterfall...quite stellar.

I found the hold break to make the climb substantially more challenging. In my opinion, the upper crux is now a V-grade harder. For me it required a second dyno as I was not strong enough to hold the swing then get my feet over the buldge. I also have a 6'6" wing span, so I could see this being a climb where shorter folks find the grade to be in the upper ends of 5.13. Sep 15, 2014
Tyler  
May I add:
The value of this rock climb's location/position is very high. When I first lowered down over this rig to hopefully equip it, I was simply taken back by the exposure and grand nature of it. For the redpoint crux (coming out of high roof), you must let your feet cut loose, high up, pretty much exactly straight above that ragin beauty of a falls, let em rip free and GO FOR IT!
It is quite exhilarating. More peeps need to go send this thing!
CONGRATULATIONS to Ryan Cowell for taking care of it. I'll get back at it again, hopefully this fall. You have inspired me again! Aug 14, 2013