Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Engel and Paul Bjork - 1995
Page Views: 2,269 total · 14/month
Shared By: randy baum on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Look for the small black cave at the base of the formation. Just a meter or so to the left, climb the slabbish section to a 45-degree overhang. Follow the bolts up and to the right.

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12d
genesis effect was the first route bolted at willow. the line consists of big holds and some varied movement, including toes hooks and underclings. the crux is using some of this trickery to do big moves between some huge holds that are harder to pull on than you'd think.

genesis effect shares the same start as couch time. once past the "slabby" section and over the first/main roof of the start, do not head right; this is couch time. instead, veer upward through huecos, pockets, and flat jugs. after about five bolts you'll come to a bulge that has a big slot at it's base. two bolts past this and you're at the anchors, a super cold shut and bolt with a leaver biner. genesis effect takes 8-10 draws. Mar 17, 2010
AntVicino
  5.12d
AntVicino  
  5.12d
The big epoxied tooth broke off a couple weeks ago. No change to the grade though. Dodged a bullet with that one though. Could have easily made the route veeeeeeeery difficult. Sep 21, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12b/c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12b/c
I would say couch time is is a good benchmark 12c. This is a notch below that at 12b/c. Great movement on HUGE holds. Jun 22, 2012