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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Hirsch
Page Views: 2,672 total, 23/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on May 7, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This new route is an extension to the already est. route 'Water Music'. Previously an aid line done by Mike Dahlberg, has now been bolted and freed. Crux is for sure the huge roof pull, with one enormous reach, a toss to the lip, and then some technique to finish the roof pull. The start has some rad moves as well but the rock below the first roof is not the best. Some clips are hard to make. Anchors are right above the monkey face, below a small roof. This is the first route that I have bolted (with the help of Jeff Engel and Mike Dahlberg's aid bolts). Enjoy!

Location

Begins on the far right side of the amplitheater next to the forever seeping rock.

Protection

Bolts. Use lots of very long draws. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.
KurtH
  5.13a
KurtH  
  5.13a
I was never on this before the aforementioned hold breaks, but as it stands now this thing is rowdy, wild and for me is slightly harder than both Hurtful Pleasures and Mono Route. Big moves up high and well worth climbing! Surprised by how fun (and burly) it was. Oct 6, 2014
This route has suffered quite a bit of breakage in the last year. I've gotten on it for goes three times in the past year (summer 2012, late fall 2012, and summer this year), but never really gave it consecutive attempts. When I first got on it, I was told that there was significant breakage since the FA, and in the last two times I've gotten on it, it has been harder than the time before. It used to be this nice little techy roof with good holds, a big swing over, and a bomber toe hook, hand match. Now, the holds are bad enough (particularly the holds that you move off of to get to the pocket on the roof, and the left hand that matches into the big pocket in the roof) that it's actually easier to just dyno through the moves from that hold to the lip. I don't know if this is good or bad, but I think it's helpful to know. Aug 23, 2013
Tyler
  5.13a
Tyler  
  5.13a
Strangely enough, I echo Ant's comments exactly.
Well said. Jun 27, 2012
AntVicino
  5.13a
AntVicino  
  5.13a
This is a really undervalued route. Has some of the coolest moves around, though. Pulling that second roof can be difficult in direct proportion to your height. For me the moves the span move in the roof was very difficult. The route breaks down into a 12a, into a good rest, into a V6/7 boulder problem depending on your length. Get on this route and try it, it is well worth it! May 8, 2010