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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Paul Bjork - 1998
Page Views: 1,252 total, 9/month
Shared By: Colin Erskine on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Open with restrictions: Details

Description

Find a corner with two large blocks at the base. Climb the crack through a 12-foot horizontal roof. At the lip follow bolts up and right to the top.

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

KurtH
 
KurtH  
 
Amazing movement, super long and pumpy, multiple knee bar rests, and good fun all around.

That said, even after more cleaning there is more rock that could fall off this, in particular the 2 bolts after the roof crack. Just make sure no one is below you when climbing...but seriously, have your belayer make sure no one is below you cause you will probably knock something off. Nov 2, 2015
Paul Bjork
5.13a
Paul Bjork  
5.13a
Thanks, Chris, for cleaning it again. As I recall, a good part of the pump on the climb was finishing out the last 15 feet with totally blown arms. This climb was a a great challenge and catharsis for me at this point in my life. I hope that you enjoy it as I did. Jul 7, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
finally got on this rig. big moves at the crux (15' below final roof), preceded and followed by shorter moves between good, albeit dirty incuts. a long-ish climb, hop on this if your looking for something that uses the roof crack and packs more climbing than shorter climbs like hurtful but not as much climbing as, say, business time or no crack for old men.

take long draws for sure. at least three are needed. definitely place one right after the roof crack, then another one two bolts later. save one more for the bolt below the last roof. clip the lower set up anchors, those right over the roof.

lastly, i've heard linking the mono route into rejection and mercy is a fun link. i haven't tried it yet, but it would give the mono route more bang for its buck, as it's one of the (if not the) shortest routes in the steep part of the crag. Jun 23, 2008
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.13a
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.13a
This route surprised me, I at first thought it was going to be filthy dirty and not fun to climb. But once cleaned it became amazingly fun to climb and one of the most aesthetic lines on the wall, especially since it's right in the middle of the amphitheatre and the steepest climb here.

Be sure to bring a lot of long draws, because rope drag over two LARGE roofs is a bitch. And the anchors are quite offset making them unequalized, which also twists up your rope pretty bad. Just a heads up.

And props to Paul for doing this route back in '98! Aug 19, 2007