Type: Sport
FA: Paul Bjork - 1998
Page Views: 1,326 total · 8/month
Shared By: Colin Erskine on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Description

Find a corner with two large blocks at the base. Climb the crack through a 12-foot horizontal roof. At the lip follow bolts up and right to the top.

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.13a
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.13a
This route surprised me, I at first thought it was going to be filthy dirty and not fun to climb. But once cleaned it became amazingly fun to climb and one of the most aesthetic lines on the wall, especially since it's right in the middle of the amphitheatre and the steepest climb here.

Be sure to bring a lot of long draws, because rope drag over two LARGE roofs is a bitch. And the anchors are quite offset making them unequalized, which also twists up your rope pretty bad. Just a heads up.

And props to Paul for doing this route back in '98! Aug 19, 2007
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
finally got on this rig. big moves at the crux (15' below final roof), preceded and followed by shorter moves between good, albeit dirty incuts. a long-ish climb, hop on this if your looking for something that uses the roof crack and packs more climbing than shorter climbs like hurtful but not as much climbing as, say, business time or no crack for old men.

take long draws for sure. at least three are needed. definitely place one right after the roof crack, then another one two bolts later. save one more for the bolt below the last roof. clip the lower set up anchors, those right over the roof.

lastly, i've heard linking the mono route into rejection and mercy is a fun link. i haven't tried it yet, but it would give the mono route more bang for its buck, as it's one of the (if not the) shortest routes in the steep part of the crag. Jun 23, 2008
Paul Bjork
5.13a
Paul Bjork  
5.13a
Thanks, Chris, for cleaning it again. As I recall, a good part of the pump on the climb was finishing out the last 15 feet with totally blown arms. This climb was a a great challenge and catharsis for me at this point in my life. I hope that you enjoy it as I did. Jul 7, 2008
KurtH
 
KurtH  
 
Amazing movement, super long and pumpy, multiple knee bar rests, and good fun all around.

That said, even after more cleaning there is more rock that could fall off this, in particular the 2 bolts after the roof crack. Just make sure no one is below you when climbing...but seriously, have your belayer make sure no one is below you cause you will probably knock something off. Nov 2, 2015