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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Paul Bjork - 1997
Page Views: 2,065 total, 15/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Nov 10, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Another pumpy jug haul with a well/over protected sequency crux. Just before the crux is a no hands knee bar which is awkward to get into. This route is soft for it's orginal rating, 13b. Probably more like 12d/13a.

Location

Same start as Natural Selection, then at the 4th bolt go right. Careful of the tree when lowering down.

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

ferrells  
 
^ i suspect a higher difficulty as well nic. However, everything feels hard to me, so ill leave it alone. Yeah, without the jug, the high crux requires actual climbing.

Also,
hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.… Jun 14, 2013
ferris
Saint Paul, Minnesota
  5.13a
ferris   Saint Paul, Minnesota
  5.13a
the horn at the crux isn't there anymore. It seems to be considerably harder. it's still climbable though I did the moves just the other day. Jun 14, 2012
Ryan C.
Woodbury, MN
 
Ryan C.   Woodbury, MN
 
I heard the horn at the crux broke. Has anyone climbed it since this? How has it changed the sequence? Jun 1, 2012
Man. I wish that were the case. That would be impressive!
...No, unfortunately I have to work for my 12s and 13s...

Also, looking for someone to climb with at willow, Wednesday (Oct. 19)? Oct 19, 2010
AntVicino
  5.12d
AntVicino  
  5.12d
J, by the way is it true you flashed this, Natural, and Genesis all in the same day?? Someone was telling me this the other day, and I was sure they must be confused.. Mad props if you did.. that is no small feat. Oct 19, 2010
AntVicino
  5.12d
AntVicino  
  5.12d
If you are aiming for the no-handed knee bar, try working your leg in their sideways.. It's awkward, but if you get it just right it will lock you in really nicely. Doing the knee bar this way can be size dependent. Oct 19, 2010
Thanks for the knee-bar info. I had figured out the finagling-knee-bar-with-slopey-feet and found it to be strenuous and definitely kind of pointless. The reason the knee-bar interested me is that I had heard of someone getting a no-hands knee-bar. Not happening for me...
However, no big deal:
No knee-bars = more fitness!
Training bonus... Oct 18, 2010
AntVicino
  5.12d
AntVicino  
  5.12d
The knee-bar is accommodating to most leg lengths. It is all about finagling it in there with the right application of slopey feet. I agree with Randy, however, that the knee-bar wastes more energy than it saves.

Getting into it and comfortably holding it might be nice for a momentary break on the arms, but it burns alot of energy in the rest of your body. My recommendation is to shake out on the holds in the bottom of the hueco. Whether you use the knee bar or not, the grade remains unaffected at what some call 12d, others 13a.

No holds have broken through the crux sequence as of 10/12/2010. Oct 14, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
most people do not use the knee bar because it is so hard to get it set up. knee bar or not, the difficulty of the climb remains the same.

as of yesterday, no hold had broken in the area you are discussing. Oct 11, 2010
What is the story with the pre crux knee-bar on this route? From what I understand the 12d/13a grade is dependent upon the knee-bar. Getting a solid knee -bar here seems to be very specific to distance between foot and knee.

Also, did a hold break semi-recently on the traverse towards the end of the crux (i.e. right of the knee-bar and directly above bad slopey pod and softball hold)? Oct 8, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
no pics? wtf? i'll take care of this... Sep 25, 2009