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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Hirsch
Page Views: 1,168 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on May 5, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Open with restrictions: Details

Description

The new enduro line here at Willow. Comparable to "Rejection and Mercy" and "Business Time". Pull through the crux in the first large roof. Then traverse right at the huge hueco (6th bolt) on great solid rock. Then head straight up at the break in the second tier. Climb with caution from here to the anchors, this is a new route, stuff is still breaking off.

Location

Start on "The Mono Route" just right of the "Rejection and Mercy" crack, break right after the sixth bolt.

Protection

15 bolts and a set of anchors. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

KurtH
  5.13b
KurtH  
  5.13b
An excellent, long, pumpy and adventurous line with a heartbreaking finish high up.

All rope drag can be entirely eliminated by using long runners from the lip of the first roof to just over the second, then long draws from there to the top. May 22, 2015
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
without some quickdraw jestery, this route has terrible rope drag, as OMG-i-cannot-even-be-lowered rope drag. yea, OMG, bro. OMG.

here's the beta to keep things drama free:

-bring a stick clip

-climb to the first bolt, go in direct, then stick clip draws on the bolts in the middle of roof (long petzl or bd draws work best). make sure your rope is through the first draw in the roof, that way you can lower off that bolt and remove the first bolt on the route (the bolt that is just 15 ft or so above the ground). removing the first bolt is key to reducing rope drag.

-once you are on lead, be sure to clip a double-length draw (or a normal length runner) on the bolt just above the roof. from here to the anchors,the remaining bolts all take normal length draws. May 1, 2013
Ryan C.
Woodbury, MN
  5.13b
Ryan C.   Woodbury, MN
  5.13b
It is much cleaner now. Most handholds should be good. If you get crazy with your feet you will most likely find loose rock (so make sure people are not in the river below you while you are on it). This is a great line and the last four bolts to the anchors will test your endurance.

Also it can be interesting to figure out the direction of travel at one point, just take the time. Well worthwhile of a climb. Aug 2, 2012
Dang you, Chris! Stealing my FA... It's unlikely that I will ever forgive you!

Good job, though! Another awesome Willow line.. May 5, 2009