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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Engel - 1998
Page Views: 2,203 total · 14/month
Shared By: randy baum on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Description

begins to the right of sudden shock and about 10ft left of natural selection. start is located just in front of a large (think dresser size) boulder that is about 5 ft from the wall.

once past the slightly vertical section and at the first/main roof, climb up a shallow, narrow corner. the sides of the corner are only a few feet wide, and the corner itself only about 10ft tall. the holds in the corner are crimps and two-finger pockets, with the occasional jug. after the corner, go left to a big hueco. from there, just follow the chalk and big holds and aim for the top. ends on two long chains set 3-4 feet apart. these chains are visible from the bridge.

if clipping all the bolts, takes around 13 draws. take a few longer draws or a few runners to eliminate drag at the start and underneath some of the other smaller roofs. lastly, thick pants and/or kneepads help for this route. :)

WHEN TOPROPING PLEASE USE USE YOUR QUICKDRAWS INSTEAD OF THE FIXED DRAWS. because the link-up sudden daydream (12a) shares the same ending as midsummer, these anchors take a lot of abuse. help us preserve the fixed anchors for as long as possible!

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c
as kurt mentioned on the page for sudden daydreams (12a), some holds recently broke about 1/2 up the route, making the sequence a bit harder (and better?). the choss factory giveth, the choss factory taketh away. May 1, 2016

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