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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Josh Helke, Tarek Haddad and Jeff Engel - 1997
Page Views: 3,008 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tyler on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route had a bolt added to the crux and hours of work put into removing loose and dangerous rock in 2011. Well worth the time.
This climb is located on the left (not so steep) part of the wall. There's a small corner slightly off the ground; start to its right.
The proper sequence through the slight overhang will allow for 5.9 climbing.
Because of the crux section, it is not recommended for beginning leaders to learn on this route. Top rope it first a few times before giving it a lead burn. Get that crux dialed.
Gets some of the earliest sun of the day.

Protection

guess.... Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
After hear such horrible things about this route I was a little apprehensive to try it, but I finally did. To my surprise it was actually a fun climb, not stellar by any means but fun none the less. It is a little sandy at one section but otherwise I thought it was enjoyable. The fourth bolt at the crux is a spinner. Jul 18, 2006
Richard C  
 
Although this route is rated 5.9 it is by no means easy or safe for the beginner climber, in the last six months I have seen two people get seriously (as in going to the hospital) injured on this route. Do not attempt to lead this if you are inexperienced at leading, go to Red Wing, get some experience, and come back to willow then, because willow is awesome, but breaking your face and going to the hospital is not. May 3, 2010
Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.9
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.9
Thanks to whoever added the extra bolt on this route. The bolt helps in two ways. First, it helps prevent the injuries that Richard is referencing. Second, it helps to keep the rope into the wall so you dont get your leg behind it. Willow now has a moderate feeling climb! That being said, keep Richard warning in mind. Climbing is dangerous! Apr 25, 2012
Tyler
 
Tyler  
 
This route simply needed a little love.
I added the bolt (sponsored by the MCA) and cleaned the route (removed loose sketchy rocks from the climb) for about 4.5 hours at last years' Willow River Cleanup (sponsored by the MN Bouldering Coop).
I climb it most times I am at Willow (2-3 times a week) and I truly enjoy the climb.
Richard (The Professional) is correct, make sure you are an experienced lead climber before getting on this route.
DO NOT clip the spinning-hanger-bolt out left. I will remove it.
If the anchor carabiners are looking worn, do not flip them upside down, REPLACE THEM. Everyone should give back a little to this gorgeous area.
Please do not write this route off--ITS WORTH THE TIME! Jun 27, 2012
Sean Foster  
 
Jar of Flies was rebolted this year by Sheriff Bob! It's cleaner than it has ever been and all the bolts are long glue-ins. It is a fine climb. Apr 24, 2017
Morgan Pearson
Ames, IA
 
Morgan Pearson   Ames, IA
 
Although a decent way to warm up for the more experienced climber, I don't think it's particularly a good route to learn on due to more obscure beta and slightly tricky moves and potentials for weird falls. Maybe have your newbies follow until they feel comfortable and safe with the movement. Nov 27, 2017

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