Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 1,206 total · 16/month
Shared By: ferrells on Sep 5, 2012
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Description

Beautiful! This route finds the best position on the entire wall. Just unbelievable.
Start with a brutal sequence of long reaches between pockets and edges, coming out of the first steep roof. It doesn't let up until you traverse left at the third bolt, but persevere! Next you have 3 bolts worth of huge jugs, which feels more like the routes below than the others on the Mez.
Rest as best you can in the largest, highest hueco, using a (potentially) awesome kneebar (rt.). Then bust out of there for a 30 foot section of long moves between mostly jugs. Look for a final heart breaker red point crux very high.
Because the Mez can be a little confusing, start on a good left hand pocket and a decent right hand sidepull/undercling. Finish using holds on the left of the dihedral, and finally working into the dihedral to clip the New Beginnings anchors.

Location

Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.
Avoid cutting right onto the route that branches at the 3-4 bolt. This is the new (as of summer 2013) and amazing Reqiuem!

Protection

Draws. Maybe 10 or 12.
Stick clip for sure.

Photos

ferrells
  5.12c
ferrells  
  5.12c
Nope. The closed project branches to the right of this route at the 3rd bolt. Fox Confessor is neither closed, nor a project. Sorry if I was unclear. Sep 9, 2012
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
Thanks for clearing that up. Sep 9, 2012
Tyler
 
Tyler  
 
Thanks Sean. Nice description. And thanks for making such quick work of it, you beastoid. Sep 18, 2012
Ryan C.
Woodbury, MN
  5.12c
Ryan C.   Woodbury, MN
  5.12c
Great climb, one of my favorite at Willow by far. Unless I just did it poorly, the kneebar is more of a scum for people with longer legs. Also should note that the line to the right is open to be enjoyed as well. Aug 13, 2013
KurtH
  5.12+
KurtH  
  5.12+
PLEASE NOTE: while cleaned fairly well by now, there is still a possibility of rock coming off this line. DO NOT CLIMB when people are directly below the arete on a summer's day hanging out in the waterfall. Have your belayer ask them to politely move for a few minutes while you climb. Or just don't climb it on a busy day - we don't want anyone getting hurt.

The movement on the route is stunning and claims a spectacular position over the waterfall, but the 10 foot choss traverse starting at the 3rd bolt definitely subtracts from the overall quality. Mar 30, 2015