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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 1,165 total · 16/month
Shared By: ferrells on Sep 5, 2012
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Description

Beautiful! This route finds the best position on the entire wall. Just unbelievable.
Start with a brutal sequence of long reaches between pockets and edges, coming out of the first steep roof. It doesn't let up until you traverse left at the third bolt, but persevere! Next you have 3 bolts worth of huge jugs, which feels more like the routes below than the others on the Mez.
Rest as best you can in the largest, highest hueco, using a (potentially) awesome kneebar (rt.). Then bust out of there for a 30 foot section of long moves between mostly jugs. Look for a final heart breaker red point crux very high.
Because the Mez can be a little confusing, start on a good left hand pocket and a decent right hand sidepull/undercling. Finish using holds on the left of the dihedral, and finally working into the dihedral to clip the New Beginnings anchors.

Location

Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.
Avoid cutting right onto the route that branches at the 3-4 bolt. This is the new (as of summer 2013) and amazing Reqiuem!

Protection

Draws. Maybe 10 or 12.
Stick clip for sure.

Photos

ferrells  
 
Nope. The closed project branches to the right of this route at the 3rd bolt. Fox Confessor is neither closed, nor a project. Sorry if I was unclear. Sep 9, 2012
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
Thanks for clearing that up. Sep 9, 2012
Tyler
 
Tyler  
 
Thanks Sean. Nice description. And thanks for making such quick work of it, you beastoid. Sep 18, 2012
Ryan C.
Woodbury, MN
  5.12c
Ryan C.   Woodbury, MN
  5.12c
Great climb, one of my favorite at Willow by far. Unless I just did it poorly, the kneebar is more of a scum for people with longer legs. Also should note that the line to the right is open to be enjoyed as well. Aug 13, 2013
KurtH
  5.12+
KurtH  
  5.12+
PLEASE NOTE: while cleaned fairly well by now, there is still a possibility of rock coming off this line. DO NOT CLIMB when people are directly below the arete on a summer's day hanging out in the waterfall. Have your belayer ask them to politely move for a few minutes while you climb. Or just don't climb it on a busy day - we don't want anyone getting hurt.

The movement on the route is stunning and claims a spectacular position over the waterfall, but the 10 foot choss traverse starting at the 3rd bolt definitely subtracts from the overall quality. Mar 30, 2015

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