Elevation: 866 ft
GPS: 45.02, -92.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,953 total · 465/month
Shared By: randy baum on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge
Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Description

Steep sport climbing in the large amphitheater near Willow Falls. Some of the steepest stone in the Midwest. Most climbs tend to be endurance fests on large holds. Climbs range from 5.11 to 5.13 and harder. This area is best for the 5.12 and up climber, although there are a few 5.11's. Approximately 25 routes total. Do NOT rappel from the overlook above the climbs. Across the river from the huge roof area is another cliff face that has bolts, rangers are not pleased that these bolts exist so don't climb there. Access is somewhat tenuous, so don't give the rangers any reason to close Willow to climbing.

There is also a big river that is right next to the climbing so you can pack your day of climbing and also a little whitewater. All and all it will be fun.

PLEASE DO NOT TOPROPE OFF OF THE FIXED ANCHORS AT WILLOW RIVER!

If you plan to TR after leading something, use your own draws for this. The anchors are showing signs of the increased traffic. If you see biners at the top of a climb that are worn or do not open and close properly, please replace them!

Getting There

Its in Hudson, WI.

Take exit 4 off of I94 and follow the signs to the park. Go past the main entrance to the small parking lot about 400 yards further. Follow the trail down the long gradual hill and to the bridge where you will see the amphitheater.

Access Restrictions

September 15 - May 15 (fall/winter/spring)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except for Friday and Saturday. On Friday, climbing is only open 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited.

May 15 - September 15 (late spring/summer)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. On Friday and Sunday, climbing is only allowed 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited all day.

See this photo for the official park rules.

47 Total Climbs

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Location: Willow River State Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Willow River State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 11
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck
Sport, Boulder
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 51
White Noise
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Link Up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 46
Daily Grind
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 49
Sudden Shock
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Sudden Daydreams
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 41
Natural Selection
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Midsummer Daydreams
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 16
Couch Time
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Genesis Effect
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Brass Monkey
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
Hurtful Pleasures
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Mono Mercy
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Dry Lightning
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Requiem
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck
 11
V-easy 3 Sport, Boulder
White Noise
 51
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Link Up
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Daily Grind
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sudden Shock
 49
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sudden Daydreams
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Natural Selection
 41
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Midsummer Daydreams
 11
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Couch Time
 16
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Genesis Effect
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Brass Monkey
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hurtful Pleasures
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mono Mercy
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Dry Lightning
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Requiem
 4
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Willow River State Park »

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