Willow River State Park Climbing

This area is sorely lacking in photos. Let's see some more photos of the routes and climbers actually on them. That would be great! Sep 22, 2008

I am confused at the state of affairs of this climbing area, it says that the use of fixed protection is prohibited does this mean that no more bolts can be placed or that people cant use existing bolts??? as far as the other bluff goes is climbing allowed at all or is it closed??? they way the description is written seems to gives an impression that its a locals only crag and that all others should not attend?? whats the story here??? May 9, 2009

The whole situation with Willow is a bit confusing. You certainly can use existing bolts, but as for placing new ones or replacing old ones it is best to consult Jeff Engel (as it states in the guidebook). But what I think Colin may be referring to is quickdraws, it is prohibited to leave your gear hanging overnight. The other cliff opposite the Main Amphitheater is permanently closed to climbing, those bolts have been removed. Willow is somewhat of a local's only crag (not in the private sense of course) due to the unusual restrictions that are enforced, and it being only 30min from downtown St. Paul. Most out-of-town climbers can't make it here during a weekday, and there is practically no climbing allowed on the weekend. It's a shame since this place is such a gem! In the last couple years there has been a boom in the number of climbers coming here, which is awesome!! But "all others" are more than welcome to check this sick crag out, I'd say it's well worth the visit if you can get a day or two off from work. Especially in the summer, this is a great summer time crag. May 9, 2009

thanks for the info the area looks amazing but i didnt want to step on anybody's toes or cause a problem by just showing up and not knowing the whole story. May 13, 2009

Just to shed some more light on the climbing times..... The park is open during the weekdays from 6am to 11pm. Mon-Thurs, you can climb during those hours. Friday only till noon, saturday closed, and sunday only till noon. Jun 25, 2009

I wonder why there's no mention of the not-too-bad bouldering adjacent to the falls. It's obvious that the sport route quality trumps any bouldering here to the nth degree, but if nobody brings up a few of the better "problems" and traverses on the left side of Willow Falls, I'd be glad to. Anyone who wants to beat me to the punch, go ahead. At this point, I'm not going to name anything: probably just describe the problems and take a few photos. Oct 20, 2009

Nathan, what side of the falls are you talking about? The side with all the routes or the other side? The other side of the falls is off limits to climbing, even bouldering, so if you are climbing over there, you should stop. If you are talking about the little bit of rock right underneath the main amphitheater, then that rock is super loose and chossy and totally not worth traveling out to Willow for. Mar 8, 2010

Heheheh. Willow as a "bouldering destination": that would set em up for disappointment huh? What I refer to are some of the great warm up traverses beneath the amphitheater that don't involve topping out so much as long traverses to finishing holds. Similar to gym problems in concept I suppose. A few clean boulder problems sit amidst the amphitheater chockstones but they tend to be over just as soon as they start. My goal for posting is to briefly describe where leaders can warm up below the main wall before taking off into the stratosphere. None of these four or five problems will include stone on the "off limits" side of the falls. Anything too chossy will not be included. A few should be up by August let's say. Mar 30, 2010

How is the seepage factor at this time of year? May 5, 2010

Sudden Shock is the only route that suffers from any sort of consistent seepage. This time of the year it is perfectly fine. The route is as dry as it ever is. May 7, 2010

Thanks antvicino May 8, 2010

sudden shock is wet and slimy lower on the route depending on the moisture in the air, and if it's been consistantly rainy. The slippery stuff normally doesn't affect any of the harder moves anyway Jun 13, 2010

The wetness of Sudden Shock is a result of some rock that broke inside the wall a couple years ago. The seepage usually only hits the large ledge at the third bolt, just dont go too far back on the ledge, for it will be muddy, otherwise it will be perfectly dry. Jun 21, 2010

10/18/2010 I cleaned two draws off the anchors of Natural Selection. If these belong to you, shoot me a message and I will get them back to you. Oct 19, 2010

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For those that are interested, by the way, there will be a specific Willow River Guidebook coming out in the next couple months or so. The guidebook will be very useful because the nature of Willow and its linkups make it very hard deciphering where certain lines go. There will also be information in the guidebook about climbs not yet listed on Mountain Project. You'll be able to pick up the book fromescapeclimbing.com before also being released to Vertical Endeavors and Midwest Mountaineering. If you want more information you can message myself or Ryan Angelo.

• End shameless promotion*

Oct 24, 2010

Theres a cool alternative start to sudden shock, start under the large roof to the left Oct 29, 2010

The Willow River Guidebook will be available at Vertical Endeavors, Midwest Mountaineering, and Escapeclimbing.com by the end of this week. In the land of link-ups, this book will prove very useful. Come check it out! Dec 28, 2010

Can someone explain to me why climbing is so restricted in this area on weekends? There appear to be no such restrictions on camping there. Sep 9, 2011

Evan pick up the new guidebook at a local shop! Good explanation in there. Sep 9, 2011

This year's event will be hosted by the Minnesota Climbing CO•OP. The Willow River Clean-Up will be on Sunday, October 16, 2011 from 12-5p.

Please check-in at the park office and then continue to the maintenance shed. If you do not have a parking sticker, pick up a temporary sticker at the park office.

Make sure to wear appropriate clothing and bring work gloves and have plenty of water.

THINGS TO DO: litter pick up, break new trail, replace anchors & bolts, build benches, & trail maintenance.

See your there!

MNCC

For more information/questions/comments:

www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=187822234621718 Oct 10, 2011

Its willow season and the willow river guidebooks are now $15.95 with free shipping (was $19.95) at escapeclimbing.com/extras.html Mar 13, 2012

So I lead the climb farthest left in the really crumbly/breaking rock area (not a big fan) and I was given the impression by some other climbers that it was newly bolted since last year (2011). Anyone have any information on it? Some of the bolts on it did not look very new, but the top were in very good condition. The route starts far left, (just left of jar of flies) and trails up just left to jar of flies and then goes left at a small "arete" where it ends. You could set up a top rope for it from jar of flies with a little traversing, or just use the same anchors for a bit of it while trailing a rope and set it up. I think I'd give it a 5.10 rating.

Curious. Mar 14, 2012

I have someones Scarpa shoes, left a couple of weeks ago at Willow.
Email me at tyhoff15@yahoo.com with scarpa type, color and size if you want them back. Jun 27, 2012

What's the season like at Willow? How late into the fall can you climb? Can this info be added into the area description? Can you find partners locally when you want them?

I just moved to Chicago, hoping to make it up this fall! Looks rad. :) Sep 3, 2012

hi erika,

as long as the temps are 40 and above, you can climb at willow. this means it's possible to climb there nearly every month of the year. during last year's mild winter, for example, i got out twice in february. in a "normal" MN winter, however, the season wraps up in late november and opens again in mid-march.

i'll add this info to the description.

as for finding partners, post on this site, check out the climbing meetup group, or visit any of the local gyms (vertical endeavors two locations or the minnesota climbing co-op, which has open hours 5:30-9:30 on monday, wednesday, and friday). lastly, if the temps are good, chances are high that you'll find a partner at the crag. Sep 4, 2012

Willow River Climbers,

Just out of curiosity-

I know that a clean up was held at Willow River last year, sometime in October if I remember correctly, will that be happening again this year?

Thanks,

Charles Sep 26, 2012

Hey Charles, the cleanup will be Sunday October 14th this year starting at noon. You can get more details or ask questions on the Facebook event page, facebook.com/events/3201825… Sep 26, 2012

Am I right in thinking the new hunting proposal (extended seasons) won't affect climbing here much?

dnr.wi.gov/topic/parks/hunt… Oct 29, 2012

doug, you're correct. the climbing area, which is located at the falls, falls just outside of the hunting area. and aside from the falls, there are no other climbing areas located in the park, so we're in the clear. Oct 29, 2012

Thanks Randy! You should look at some of the other property maps, too. I think Interstate is also no problem for climbing? Oct 29, 2012

yep, doug. interstate (aka taylors falls) is good to go, as well. (i was there today, in fact.)

in terms of being in harms way of hunters, the problematic areas are sandstone (the bouldering area only), swede's forrest, and the duluth areas, especially the lake county road 6 crags (sawmill, mystic mountain, section 13, ely's). wear orange and be alert!

doug, we need to meet up. i'm planning a trip to dl/madison sometime this winter. there are many problems at the lake that i want to try. i also want to stop by madison for a bite and a drink. i'll contact you with dates when i get a time frame figured out. Oct 31, 2012

How easy is it to TR at Willow? I haven't tried climbing at the falls and am not solid enough on sport.I've been to the falls a lot, and know that the overhang is pretty significant. May 8, 2013

Walter. The first couple (2-3) climbs can be decently TR'd (please use your own draws for anchors): Jar of Flies, Daily Grind, and White Noise. For the others it gets steep pretty fast but you can give some of them a burn by seconding. Not sure about the climbs on the Mezzanine. May 14, 2013

Curious as to which Willow 5.12c is the hardest? Which 13b? Here's a list of Willow routes from easiest to hardest, irrespective of the Mountain Project grade.

This list was compiled by myself and some longtime Willow locals. With only a handful of true lines, climbing at Willow can get repetitive. These lists help keep things fresh. Happy climbing and watch out for falling choss. :)

bit.ly/10CZ3dN May 17, 2013

WIth all the rain lately is the cave climbable? Jun 28, 2013

Hey all,

I'm looking for a climbing partner, I want to send most of the routes here and I got some time on my hands. Please call email me if you are interested. Delariva28@gmail.com Jul 3, 2013

climb all 5.12s in a single after-work session. draws must be hung by climber. there are 14 5.12s in all. i have excluded one-move linkups like natural daydreams, surf selection, and new beginnings. no prize to the winner. just lots of enduro gained.

here are the routes (listed left-to-right):

sudden day dreams, 12a
midsummer day dreams, 12c
natural selection, 12b
tsunami, 12d
middle cyclone, 12c
genesis effect, 12d
couch time, 12c
cypher 2, 12c
brass monkey, 12d
water music, 12a
left overs, 12a
fox compressor, 12c
sunday sermon, 12b
dopler effect, 12a Mar 22, 2014

Randy - is it time to organize these routes from Left to Right?

It's been ages since I climbed at Willow, otherwise I would try to tackle this myself.

Anyone care to try to take this on? Jul 16, 2015

Or draw a topo if any of the MN crew wants to reveal their true stance on linkups.... Shit this is in Wisconsin.


But the Cave Boulder! Shit, also in Wisconsin.

God damnit. Jul 17, 2015

Randy or others. I don't see anything here about the negotiated access for off-season access all day Sundays Sept 15th to May 15th. Can someone confirm that as of 2015 Willow is now open all day Sundays until May 15th and will reopen after Sept 15th? I had fun October 2015 climbing there with lots of others late on a Sunday. Mar 25, 2016

madisonchoss, willow seceded to MN years ago. aside from you and nimmer, willow had no able bodied curators to speak of in the badger state. it was further saddened by the wisco crews aversion to bolts and love of lowball, contrived chunks of quarzite. now, willow rests easy in the arms of those from god's country, lovers of limestone choss, shitty link-ups, and terrible climbing conditions.

mark, i've updated the access details. see the description above. Apr 7, 2016

Chris treggE - I would like to see the routes listed L to R (as best you can in the land of 10,000 link ups). If you need someone to reorganize them, I will do it. Jun 8, 2017

I've organized the routes from L to R. For all link up routes, they are ordered first by what route it starts on and then by where they end. The three unsorted routes are closed. Jun 13, 2017