Elevation: | 866 ft |
GPS: | 45.02, -92.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 55,622 total · 374/month |
Shared By: | randy baum on Feb 8, 2006 |
Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE |
Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Description
Steep sport climbing in the large amphitheater near Willow Falls. Some of the steepest stone in the Midwest. Most climbs tend to be endurance fests on large holds. Climbs range from 5.11 to 5.13 and harder. This area is best for the 5.12 and up climber, although there are a few 5.11's. Approximately 25 routes total. Do NOT rappel from the overlook above the climbs. Across the river from the huge roof area is another cliff face that has bolts, rangers are not pleased that these bolts exist so don't climb there. Access is somewhat tenuous, so don't give the rangers any reason to close Willow to climbing.
There is also a big river that is right next to the climbing so you can pack your day of climbing and also a little whitewater. All and all it will be fun.
PLEASE DO NOT TOPROPE OFF OF THE FIXED ANCHORS AT WILLOW RIVER!
If you plan to TR after leading something, use your own draws for this. The anchors are showing signs of the increased traffic. If you see biners at the top of a climb that are worn or do not open and close properly, please replace them!
There is also a big river that is right next to the climbing so you can pack your day of climbing and also a little whitewater. All and all it will be fun.
PLEASE DO NOT TOPROPE OFF OF THE FIXED ANCHORS AT WILLOW RIVER!
If you plan to TR after leading something, use your own draws for this. The anchors are showing signs of the increased traffic. If you see biners at the top of a climb that are worn or do not open and close properly, please replace them!
Getting There
Its in Hudson, WI.
Take exit 4 off of I94 and follow the signs to the park. Go past the main entrance to the small parking lot about 400 yards further. Follow the trail down the long gradual hill and to the bridge where you will see the amphitheater.
Take exit 4 off of I94 and follow the signs to the park. Go past the main entrance to the small parking lot about 400 yards further. Follow the trail down the long gradual hill and to the bridge where you will see the amphitheater.
Access Restrictions
September 15 - May 15 (fall/winter/spring)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except for Friday and Saturday. On Friday, climbing is only open 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited.
May 15 - September 15 (late spring/summer)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. On Friday and Sunday, climbing is only allowed 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited all day.
See this photo for the official park rules.
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except for Friday and Saturday. On Friday, climbing is only open 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited.
May 15 - September 15 (late spring/summer)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. On Friday and Sunday, climbing is only allowed 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited all day.
See this photo for the official park rules.
Classic Climbing Routes at Willow River State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
43 Comments
More About Willow River State Park
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Guidebooks (2)
Wisconsin
Rapid City, SD
Wisconsin
Bloomington, mn
Bloomington, mn
For those that are interested, by the way, there will be a specific Willow River Guidebook coming out in the next couple months or so. The guidebook will be very useful because the nature of Willow and its linkups make it very hard deciphering where certain lines go. There will also be information in the guidebook about climbs not yet listed on Mountain Project. You'll be able to pick up the book fromescapeclimbing.com before also being released to Vertical Endeavors and Midwest Mountaineering. If you want more information you can message myself or Ryan Angelo.
- End shameless promotion*
Oct 24, 2010Iowa City, IA
Madison, Beersconsin
Minneapolis, MN
Please check-in at the park office and then continue to the maintenance shed. If you do not have a parking sticker, pick up a temporary sticker at the park office.
Make sure to wear appropriate clothing and bring work gloves and have plenty of water.
THINGS TO DO: litter pick up, break new trail, replace anchors & bolts, build benches, & trail maintenance.
See your there!
MNCC
For more information/questions/comments:
www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=187822234621718 Oct 10, 2011
Leavenworth, WA
Curious. Mar 14, 2012
Email me at tyhoff15@yahoo.com with scarpa type, color and size if you want them back. Jun 27, 2012
I just moved to Chicago, hoping to make it up this fall! Looks rad. :) Sep 3, 2012
Minneapolis, MN
as long as the temps are 40 and above, you can climb at willow. this means it's possible to climb there nearly every month of the year. during last year's mild winter, for example, i got out twice in february. in a "normal" MN winter, however, the season wraps up in late november and opens again in mid-march.
i'll add this info to the description.
as for finding partners, post on this site, check out the climbing meetup group, or visit any of the local gyms (vertical endeavors two locations or the minnesota climbing co-op, which has open hours 5:30-9:30 on monday, wednesday, and friday). lastly, if the temps are good, chances are high that you'll find a partner at the crag. Sep 4, 2012
Evergreen, CO
Just out of curiosity-
I know that a clean up was held at Willow River last year, sometime in October if I remember correctly, will that be happening again this year?
Thanks,
Charles Sep 26, 2012
Minneapolis, MN
Madison, WI
dnr.wi.gov/topic/parks/hunt… Oct 29, 2012
Minneapolis, MN
Madison, WI
Minneapolis, MN
in terms of being in harms way of hunters, the problematic areas are sandstone (the bouldering area only), swede's forrest, and the duluth areas, especially the lake county road 6 crags (sawmill, mystic mountain, section 13, ely's). wear orange and be alert!
doug, we need to meet up. i'm planning a trip to dl/madison sometime this winter. there are many problems at the lake that i want to try. i also want to stop by madison for a bite and a drink. i'll contact you with dates when i get a time frame figured out. Oct 31, 2012
Tucson, AZ
Minneapolis, MN
This list was compiled by myself and some longtime Willow locals. With only a handful of true lines, climbing at Willow can get repetitive. These lists help keep things fresh. Happy climbing and watch out for falling choss. :)
bit.ly/10CZ3dN May 17, 2013
I'm looking for a climbing partner, I want to send most of the routes here and I got some time on my hands. Please call email me if you are interested. Delariva28@gmail.com Jul 3, 2013
Minneapolis, MN
here are the routes (listed left-to-right):
sudden day dreams, 12a
midsummer day dreams, 12c
natural selection, 12b
tsunami, 12d
middle cyclone, 12c
genesis effect, 12d
couch time, 12c
cypher 2, 12c
brass monkey, 12d
water music, 12a
left overs, 12a
fox compressor, 12c
sunday sermon, 12b
dopler effect, 12a Mar 22, 2014
Madison, Beersconsin
It's been ages since I climbed at Willow, otherwise I would try to tackle this myself.
Anyone care to try to take this on? Jul 16, 2015
But the Cave Boulder! Shit, also in Wisconsin.
God damnit. Jul 17, 2015
Minneapolis, MN
mark, i've updated the access details. see the description above. Apr 7, 2016