Willow River State Park Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Willow River State Park

L › R R › L A › Z

	Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
	Brass Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
	Couch Time S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Drop Test S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dry Lightning S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Midsummer Selection S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	No Crack for Old Men S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Surf Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Elevation:	850 ft
GPS:	45.02, -92.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	98,406 total · 550/month
Shared By:	randy baum on Feb 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. However, from 15 May to 15 Sept, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon.

Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.

Description

Steep sport climbing in the large amphitheater near Willow Falls. Some of the steepest stone in the Midwest. Most climbs tend to be endurance fests on large holds. Climbs range from 5.11 to 5.13 and harder. This area is best for the 5.12 and up climber, although there are a few 5.11's. Approximately 25 routes total. Do NOT rappel from the overlook above the climbs. Across the river from the huge roof area is another cliff face that has bolts, rangers are not pleased that these bolts exist so don't climb there. Access is somewhat tenuous, so don't give the rangers any reason to close Willow to climbing.

There is also a big river that is right next to the climbing so you can pack your day of climbing and also a little whitewater. All and all it will be fun.

PLEASE DO NOT TOPROPE OFF OF THE FIXED ANCHORS AT WILLOW RIVER!

If you plan to TR after leading something, use your own draws for this. The anchors are showing signs of the increased traffic. If you see biners at the top of a climb that are worn or do not open and close properly, please replace them!

Getting There

Its in Hudson, WI.

Take exit 4 off of I94 and follow the signs to the park. Go past the main entrance to the small parking lot about 400 yards further. Follow the trail down the long gradual hill and to the bridge where you'll see the amphitheater.

Please note the trail just off the bridge that accesses a small path avoiding the water is closed. There have been 5 accidents so far this summer with non climbers following people up the trail and falling, so the rangers blocked off the path with a chained tree. They are working to make access easier that avoids the water as well.

Access Restrictions

September 15 - May 15 (fall/winter/spring)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except for Saturday. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited.

May 15 - September 15 (late spring/summer)
Climbing is open all day for every day of the week except Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. On Friday and Sunday, climbing is only allowed 6am-Noon. On Saturday, climbing is prohibited all day.

See this photo for the official park rules.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Willow River State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V-easy 3 14 ● Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck Sport, Boulder
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 24 ● Drop Test Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 57 ● White Noise Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 26 ● Link Up Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 52 ● Daily Grind Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 54 ● Sudden Shock Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 29 ● Sudden Daydreams Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 45 ● Natural Selection Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 12 ● Midsummer Daydreams Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 18 ● Couch Time Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 21 ● Genesis Effect Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 13 ● Hurtful Pleasures Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 11 ● Brass Monkey Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 4 ● Mono Mercy Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 6 ● Dry Lightning Sport