Type: Sport
FA: Josh Helke
Page Views: 1,648 total · 10/month
Shared By: Brandonbus on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Open with restrictions: Details

Description

This is the only finished route up river from "Leftovers." The route starts with a crux right off the ground. A couple moves yields more moderate pocket pulling on less than bomber rock (at times in the summer watch for bees) to a higher tiered roof section and finishes on hard moves for clipping the anchors.

Carefully cross upper falls from shady side of river. Stick clip the first bolt.

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
I believe that this route is also known as Doppler Effect, and goes at 5.12a.

JW Apr 26, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Something doesn't sound right here...a 5.9 is also called a 5.12? Apr 26, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Consider the original poster... Apr 26, 2007
Brandonbus
  5.12a
Brandonbus  
  5.12a
I find it hard to believe that the route described is anywhere near 5.9. I'm thinking low 12 as well. The moves off the ground are hard enough without thinking about the desperatly blind slapping that occurs when trying to clip the anchor. Also careful on the hike over. Mar 28, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
The route description has been changed by Brandonbus. It should be more accurate now. Apr 6, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
john stretch said this route has also been called "splash."

this route stays dry most of the time and is a good choice if you're visiting after a recent storm.

be prepared for the finals holds to be covered in mud.

stick clip helpful for first bolt.

to reach the route, go across to the other side of the river, hike above the falls, the cross back to the base of the route. note: it's easier to cross this upper section if you take your shoes/sandals off and go barefoot. Aug 10, 2009
AntVicino
  5.12a
AntVicino  
  5.12a
This line has surprisingly good moves on better than expected rock. Randy is right about the last holds being covered in mud, however. Definitely check out this line if you are in the neighborhood and want an adventurous little route. Sep 21, 2010