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Routes in Willow River State Park

Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3
Brass Monkey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Couch Time S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drop Test S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Midsummer Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Crack for Old Men S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Requiem S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Surf Selection S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Josh Helke
Page Views: 1,580 total, 11/month
Shared By: Brandonbus on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Open with restrictions: Details

Description

This is the only finished route up river from "Leftovers." The route starts with a crux right off the ground. A couple moves yields more moderate pocket pulling on less than bomber rock (at times in the summer watch for bees) to a higher tiered roof section and finishes on hard moves for clipping the anchors.

Carefully cross upper falls from shady side of river. Stick clip the first bolt.

Protection

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

Photos

AntVicino
  5.12a
AntVicino  
  5.12a
This line has surprisingly good moves on better than expected rock. Randy is right about the last holds being covered in mud, however. Definitely check out this line if you are in the neighborhood and want an adventurous little route. Sep 21, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
john stretch said this route has also been called "splash."

this route stays dry most of the time and is a good choice if you're visiting after a recent storm.

be prepared for the finals holds to be covered in mud.

stick clip helpful for first bolt.

to reach the route, go across to the other side of the river, hike above the falls, the cross back to the base of the route. note: it's easier to cross this upper section if you take your shoes/sandals off and go barefoot. Aug 10, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
The route description has been changed by Brandonbus. It should be more accurate now. Apr 6, 2008
Brandonbus
  5.12a
Brandonbus  
  5.12a
I find it hard to believe that the route described is anywhere near 5.9. I'm thinking low 12 as well. The moves off the ground are hard enough without thinking about the desperatly blind slapping that occurs when trying to clip the anchor. Also careful on the hike over. Mar 28, 2008
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Consider the original poster... Apr 26, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Something doesn't sound right here...a 5.9 is also called a 5.12? Apr 26, 2007
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
I believe that this route is also known as Doppler Effect, and goes at 5.12a.

JW Apr 26, 2007