Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Rob Pizem and Jesse Zacher |
Page Views: | 3,960 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | rob pizem on Feb 8, 2013 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are both closed to climbing
Details
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
Jesse Zacher and I checked this pitch out together and were both ready to overlook it for being too short and the start being too blank, but after both of us messed around on it, we realized that it had such unique movement that it had to be climbed.
This is a short, powerful crack. A thin and bouldery face section moves past a bolt to reach the thin crack. Finger locks get tighter as you move up and the main crack ends. Switch to the left seam past a 5 inch section to some balancy moves past the seam to the hand jam clip at the anchor.
This is a short, powerful crack. A thin and bouldery face section moves past a bolt to reach the thin crack. Finger locks get tighter as you move up and the main crack ends. Switch to the left seam past a 5 inch section to some balancy moves past the seam to the hand jam clip at the anchor.
Location
This is a couple hundred yards to the left of the Big Hands Roof. Look for a big white piece of calcite at the base of the wall. There is another 5.11 OW in the corner to the right of this route in addition to a right-curving 5.11+ just a few feet to the right.
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