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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Henritze, Jim Olsen, Jim N, and others, 1980s
Page Views: 3,554 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great long route that puts a bit of hurt on you through a small roof and up wide hands/fists. Be careful on the lower section. Your belayer may want to plug something into the Chinle as you are perched on a bit of a knoll.

Location

This is climber's right of The Curve and across the drainage approximately 250 feet. Start at the top of the opposite drainage and traverse some Chinle to begin the crack.

Protection

Bring a yellow Metolius, some other fingers at the bottom, doubles from #0.75 to #3, maybe triples of #3, and 1 or 2 #4s.

Photos

Greetings. The name of this route is Zombie Woof given to it on the first ascent by myself and others sometime in the mid to late '80s. I'm not quite sure who was there. Dave Henritze was there along with Jim Olsen and an assortment of other folks. It was also the weekend that Chuck Grosman was married. I have a vague memory that I hung just after the roof. It saddens me to see that someone thought the route needed an anchor at the end of the crack. The original anchor is in the most logical place, a ledge. However, todays climbers just can't seem to make that jump to placing anchors from ledges, when available. The placement of the anchor on the ledge camouflaged the anchor to some degree, which in today's atmosphere of increased scrutiny from private land owners and BLM/Forest Service managers is desirable.
Cheers, JN Apr 3, 2016
Frosty Weller
Colorado
  5.10+
Frosty Weller   Colorado
  5.10+
Yeah, Zombie Woof is what I know this as also. 5.10+. Feb 20, 2015
I think Keith told me this one's called Zombie Woof.... Jul 2, 2013