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Calcite Fingers
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 30
votes
Routes in Zappa Wall
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Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1 |
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Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Curve, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hands to OW T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Mr. Sheley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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OW Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Point 5 Roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Short Dihedral T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zig-Zag T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.64055, -108.38967 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,966 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are SOON to be open to climbing - BUT NOT YET!
Details
Update: per Nolan Robertson: the land is not public yet. It is a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
Through the ever present Chinle, do some small jams and crimps past the calcite. Climb fingers to a pod, then gun for the anchors where it gets really small....
Location
This is further right of Hands to OW, probably 200 yards. Turn the corner and you will see some calcite on a slab with a splitter and pod etched on to it. Climb it.
6 Comments