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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips
Page Views: 4,631 total, 56/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The crux for most may be the beginning section where it can be awkward. After getting into the acute corner, it gets more secure. This is a good climb of decent length and varied sizes.

Location

This route is vaguely shown in the supplied picture. Scurry to up up canyon side of a small valley where there are three climbs. This is the leftmost of the three.

Protection

Doubles in #0.5 and #0.75. Singles or doubles up to #2 Camalot.

Photos

Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Originally named Muffin Man. FA by Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips. May 18, 2015
Shep
Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Shep   Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Must do for the grade. A lot of desert 5.8s in places like this are chossy and lame, but this is fabulous for the grade! Oct 20, 2014
Jeremy Werlin
  5.9
Jeremy Werlin  
  5.9
Gear beta for desert chickens like me: 1 - #0.4 Camalot, 3 - #0.5, 3 - #0.75, 1 - #1, 1 - #2, 1 - #3. Nov 10, 2013