Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips
Page Views: 3,976 total · 42/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

This is a great, short climb on excellent stone. It is a good introduction to the art of the layback.

Location

This is three feet right of the Moderation.

Protection

Doubles of fingers, a #4 for the start, and smaller towards the end.

Photos

Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11a
This is a great route, BD #0.5 and 0.75 entire upper section, not to be missed at Zappa. May 31, 2011
John Peterson
  5.10a
John Peterson  
  5.10a
Very different to TR than to lead. Other than a tricky move into the wide part, everything was very obvious - it's just a question of endurance. Considerably easier if you hang a bit or have a top rope.

We used a #5 in the wide spot, but then it's green and purple all the way. Sep 13, 2011
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Wow, 10a? I assume you top roped it. FWIW, I find this one to be pretty similar in difficulty to 'Fork It'. With 'Fork It', you get the crux over early, and then it is easy. With this one, you get the crux slowly weighing down on you pretty much right to the end.

'Hanging a bit' would indeed make it 'seem' easier.... Sep 13, 2011
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
Don't be a Euro! Due to the way this thing leans, it is actually much easier to jam straight in than layback. Maybe 10- as a jam crack and harder if you don't have technique, but isn't everything? Jun 23, 2013
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Just a gear note: a #5 is much better for the pod. After that, it's all green Camalots/red Metolius. Purples are a bit tapped. Mar 26, 2015
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Originally named Uncle Remus. FA - Greg Phillips & Dave Henritze May 18, 2015
Hunter S
I don't know
 
Hunter S   I don't know
 
vimeo.com/187690440 Mar 10, 2017