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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

This is one of the better cliffs at Escalante. It probably has the highest concentration of quality routes besides the Green Machine Wall. There are several plaques at the base of the routes, but much information is scattered. Many would prefer it stay this way....

Getting There

Drive six miles from the Cabin Wall. The canyon starts to open up on the right side.

There are several faint trails heading up to different parts of the cliff. There is parking on the opposite side of the road. From here, follow the most distinct trail up a ridge.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Zappa Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Zappa Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Mod…
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short, Some Hands
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beside the Pillar
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner)
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Curve
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands R…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Zig-Zag
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fork It (HVS)
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to…
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, a…
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Calcite Fingers
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Point 5 roof
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Blood Pulse
Trad
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society…
Trad
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Cor… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Short, Some Hands 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beside the Pillar 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Curve 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Dirty Red Cam Corner 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Zombie Woof (submitted as B… 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Zig-Zag 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Fork It (HVS) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Hanging to the Right (unkno… 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Green Cam Lieback (aka Past… 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Calcite Fingers 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Point 5 roof 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Blood Pulse 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
The Frank Zappa Appreciatio… 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Zappa Wall »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just to reaffirm that we are not trying to rename anything out here. It is just easier to refer to previously established routes (without a shared written history) with a name that is descriptive of the crack itself. Anyone with actual information (names) feel free to share them and they can and will be updated. Feb 18, 2013
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Thank you for adding pictures and route info. Oct 10, 2011
DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
I completely disagree with Kangaru Rat.

Jesse, I think you've done a great job adding these routes to the database. It is the necessary first step in the process of compiling an accurate history of the area. If people with any helpful information (pay attention Kangaru Rat) want to offer their knowledge of the routes or the area's history, then they are free to do so and the routes can be updated appropriately.

Until then, I don't think it is necessary to pollute the database with countless "unknowns" or "route As". Jesse's descriptions are sufficient and respectful. May 22, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
I will agree with that. When I have some time, I will go through and redo the pictures/ route descriptions.
-Jesse Mar 26, 2011
Kangaru Rat
Under a Rock
Kangaru Rat   Under a Rock
Thank you for being forward in addressing route names, Jesse. I understand that you are trying to be helpful rather than claiming routes. The use of descriptions in the “name field” of listed climbs is interpreted as a name whether that is the intent or not. Even if most climbers understand the difference, the descriptions have a way of turning into names over time. If succinct references to climbs are needed, consider a numbering system – Unknown 1, 2 or A, B, etc. Mar 26, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
I have gone through the route names and eliminated some of the wording that is not purely descriptive. Mar 25, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
As the internet, and therefore Mountain Project, is not static or fixed, I am not rewriting anything. I am very aware of the fact that all of these routes have been done and re-done again. My intentions are not to claim any of these route as mine, or to rewrite history as you say. As names and FA parties become available, I will change and update the routes. I do not agree that it is disrespectful. I simply give it a name to differentiate between climbs as having 20-30 "unknowns" would be confusing. In my mind, part of putting the Zappa Wall and other walls on here serves as a whipping post for sussing out the history as it has quiet a mixed bag of info. If you have names and FA parties, please let me know, so that I may provide the due credit. Mar 25, 2011
Kangaru Rat
Under a Rock
Kangaru Rat   Under a Rock
Jesse - most of the routes you have posted in this section were established by previous generations of climbers and have different names or are unnamed. To use convenient modern names is disrespectful to the history of the area. There is a reason the cliff is called the Zappa Wall. If a route name is not known, then it should be listed simply as “Unknown”. It is inappropriate to rewrite history. Mar 25, 2011

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