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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Allen Hill, Scott Reynolds, 1981
Page Views: 2,350 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Thin pinky jams from a Chinle band leads to a bigger size. Keep jamming up a widening crack as it gets steeper. You can get a hand in once in a while. When it gets steepest, it gets easier. It can be dirty.

Location

This lies a hundred yards past Big Hands Roof and around the corner. It is the prominent, pale corner.

Protection

Blue Metolius. Doubles maybe triples through fingers and #0.75. Doubles #1 and one #2.

Photos

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Anchors have been spruced up. Courtesy of ASCA. Feb 6, 2012
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I'm not suggesting it was less than grim, Slim. I was 17 years old. Death wasn't much on the radar in those days. Thought I could survive anything. May 24, 2011
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Very difficult to compare to Rednekk. For me, I would say this one might be a fair bit easier. Definitely way easier than Pump Station (I would say close to a number grade easier). This might be due to the fact that the average giraffe on roller skates is a helluva a lot better at liebacking than I am. The crux on Fork It is pretty brief, I usually jam instead of layback. I can kind of see the possibility of doing it on stoppers, at the start, but it would get grim pretty quick.... Apr 11, 2011
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c
Just wondering if this is a little easier than Rednekk or is it still a lot of baggy fingers? Apr 11, 2011
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
This was climbed in 1981 Scott Reynolds and me. Stoppers only. Mar 15, 2011
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
HVS means hard, very severe. Contrary to how it sounds, it translates to somewhere around 5.8 depending on the protection. Mar 14, 2011
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.11
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.11
Used to be a plaque here reading:
"Fork It" HVS (I think that's a British grade). Mar 14, 2011