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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: first free ascent
Page Views: 3,337 total, 48/month
Shared By: rob pizem on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

There are two cruxes after the initial 5.11- start. The first crux is an undercling right on tips to tips lieback. The second crux is an undercling campus out roof into ring locks to anchor.

Location

It is in the middle of the Zappa Wall out the roof to the right of Fork It. The new trail takes you right to the climb.

Protection

1 bolt from original ascent and anchors, gear from 0.2-1 inch cams plus 1 draw. I used a number 1, 0.3, 0.5, and a draw on the send.

Photos

Ben Rueck got the second ascent.

youtube.com/watch?v=MLLYCnd… Nov 4, 2015
slim    
Ah, pointer fingers, who needs em. Too big for the blue Alien cracks anyway. Apr 16, 2012
rob pizem  
 
Thanks, slim, it has ruined my two pointer fingers, but I think it was worth freeing this pitch. It was way too fun to climb on! Apr 16, 2012
slim    
Nice work, piz, figured you would probably get the FFA on this when you moved to the area. Apr 15, 2012
rob pizem  
 
Thanks to whomever aided this line years ago. Also, when passing the bolt at the first crux, be sure to have an excellent belay. A fall could break your ankles/legs on the slab/ledge below.

I still have a jammed blue TCU after the first crux. If you get it out, please let me know. I would love to get it back. I didn't have time to work at it on my last day.

Lastly, this was not my style of crack. If you are strong boulderer and know how to jam. I wouldn't doubt that you will find it easier than I did. That being said, I feel strongly that the route is mid- to upper-13 which is why the + rating. I am sure that other ascents will help adjust the rating over time. Apr 15, 2012