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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: n/a
Page Views: 1,137 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 25, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good, wide corner that starts off big hands, goes to fists, and to stacked hands towards the top. The section where you pull through the bulge on fists and when it gets near the top seem to be the cruxes.

Location

This is around the corner from Odub. Start up some blocks to gain the the solid rock.

Protection

Bring doubles of #4, #5. Maybe a #6 at the top.

Photos

Thanks for the anchor work, Jesse. Good section of just-bigger-than-fist smaller-than-knee for me. Wear the long sleeves for this one if you are a thrasher like me.

Gear beta: I had a couple old 3.5s and one 3 for the start as well. Nov 10, 2013
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Anchors have been cleaned up as of 4/13/11 thanks to the ASCA. Mar 25, 2011