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Routes in Zappa Wall

Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T C1
Beside the Pillar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Pulse T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Calcite Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Curve, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Far Right Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fork It (HVS) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hands to OW T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left Leaner T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mr. Sheeley T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
OW Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Point 5 roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short, Some Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zig-Zag T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim N., FFA: Matt Lisenby?
Page Views: 2,183 total, 32/month
Shared By: rob pizem on Mar 28, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Protect this with lots of green cams up the perfect dihedral. No rest comes until the dihedral disappears and it becomes a thin crack into a offwidth.

Location

This is the left-facing dihedral to the left of the pillar route.

Protection

0.3-2 inch, 6-8 0.5 inch pieces.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12- PG13
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12- PG13
The boulder problem is 11 R. If you fall, you will get hurt. After that, the pitch is very sustained and fully 4 stars. This would be 12 at The Creek and feels harder than some 12- pitches on Moonlight Buttress. Also, this route takes mainly purple C4s which are closer to 1". Green Aliens are 0.5", FYI. The tat is old on one of the newer bolts. The other could use tightening. This pitch is a full 30m to the lower anchors. Apr 9, 2017
Greetings again, This route was done a year or two after Zombie Woof and was called Pasta Maker because that is what it did to your arms. The left edge of the crack was very sharp and cut my fingers near my palms. I was not able to free it on the first ascent. I did have to hang. So, it could be said that someone else is entitled to name it. A couple years later, a friend said that Matt Lazenby (spelling) freed it? I was told he called it Brick Head? The original anchor is perhaps another 30 higher on a ledge near the top of the cliff.
Cheers, JN
P.S. Again the anchor is hidden more or less from view. Apr 3, 2016
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Boulder Problem takes a .75 off the deck and an optional 2 or 3 - Don't blow it though. It would not be fun

Blast .5s (maybe 4-5) till a rest. Climb the easy slot to a thin hands crack with plenty of feet. Real business is the layback Mar 8, 2016
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
Just wanted to reiterate that, despite the name, this route takes mostly the #0.5 (purple) Camalot size in the leaning corner, not greens. Feb 17, 2016
rob pizem  
 
There is now a photo. I hope this helps. Dec 11, 2012
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Super Weak. Gaggler. Mar 29, 2012
Bryan K.
Palisade, CO
Bryan K.   Palisade, CO
No photo? WTF? Mar 29, 2012