Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim N., FFA: Matt Lisenby?
Page Views: 2,485 total · 30/month
Shared By: rob pizem on Mar 28, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Protect this with lots of green cams up the perfect dihedral. No rest comes until the dihedral disappears and it becomes a thin crack into a offwidth.


This is the left-facing dihedral to the left of the pillar route.


0.3-2 inch, 6-8 0.5 inch pieces.


Bryan K.
Palisade, CO
Bryan K.   Palisade, CO
No photo? WTF? Mar 29, 2012
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Super Weak. Gaggler. Mar 29, 2012
rob pizem
rob pizem  
There is now a photo. I hope this helps. Dec 11, 2012
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
Just wanted to reiterate that, despite the name, this route takes mostly the #0.5 (purple) Camalot size in the leaning corner, not greens. Feb 17, 2016
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Boulder Problem takes a .75 off the deck and an optional 2 or 3 - Don't blow it though. It would not be fun

Blast .5s (maybe 4-5) till a rest. Climb the easy slot to a thin hands crack with plenty of feet. Real business is the layback Mar 8, 2016
Greetings again, This route was done a year or two after Zombie Woof and was called Pasta Maker because that is what it did to your arms. The left edge of the crack was very sharp and cut my fingers near my palms. I was not able to free it on the first ascent. I did have to hang. So, it could be said that someone else is entitled to name it. A couple years later, a friend said that Matt Lazenby (spelling) freed it? I was told he called it Brick Head? The original anchor is perhaps another 30 higher on a ledge near the top of the cliff.
Cheers, JN
P.S. Again the anchor is hidden more or less from view. Apr 3, 2016
Boulder, CO
  5.12- PG13
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12- PG13
The boulder problem is 11 R. If you fall, you will get hurt. After that, the pitch is very sustained and fully 4 stars. This would be 12 at The Creek and feels harder than some 12- pitches on Moonlight Buttress. Also, this route takes mainly purple C4s which are closer to 1". Green Aliens are 0.5", FYI. The tat is old on one of the newer bolts. The other could use tightening. This pitch is a full 30m to the lower anchors. Apr 9, 2017