Type: Sport
FA: Chris Sharma
Page Views: 1,956 total · 28/month
Shared By: Kyle Queener on Feb 8, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A Chris Sharma 5.14a

Ubermensch from Kyle Queener on Vimeo.

Location

This is the overhanging arete on the East Side of the Monolith between Lard Butt and Hot Lava Lucy.

Protection

Five bolts lead to a two bolt anchor

Photos

Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
  5.14a
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
  5.14a
Great route, good movement. I found I liked to bring my stick clip for the start. Doesn't really let up and I would say there are not any rests. Just enough there to clip and maybe grab chalk. Climbs more like a long boulder problem. Consensus seems to be 5.14a. Mar 29, 2014
Zacharias Gustav
Santa Cruz, CA
Zacharias Gustav   Santa Cruz, CA
What was the hold that broke that made it go from 13d to 14a? any ideas? Fun route with about a billion possible ways to go about it. Felt good on it and would love to get back ASAP. any takers this week? Mar 16, 2015
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
  5.14a
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
  5.14a
You can watch the old Masters of Stone video that shows Chris doing the FA. You can see a couple holds that have changed since then.

And just one added note to everyone - leaving fixed draws up at Pinnacles is not okay, so please clean your routes at the end of the day. Also, it's a great idea to pick up some trash while you're out there and if you source a stick from the bushes to use as a stick clip be sure to put it back and take the tape with you. Mar 24, 2015