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Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
√úbermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Whitmar & Hammack Dec. 1953
Page Views: 1,933 total, 20/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A great route, but, no beginner lead and quite possibly x-rated (R+ in the guidebook). Blowing it to the first and/or second bolt would have severe consequences.

That said, fun climbing. Classic Pinnacles.

Lean over, start up the committing moves to the first bolt, and keep a darn cool head. Or, TR it by climbing another route to the summit plateau.

Location

Starts on the pedestal just north of Lunch Rock. Rappel route from anchor bolts on the SE corner of the summit boulder.

Protection

4 very well spaced lead bolts. Scary!

Makes sense that some semblance of belay anchor take place as a fall prior to the first bolt would have dire consequences for both the leader and belayer. Maybe take a set of gear and put something bomber in.

Photos

ascher
Los Angeles, CA
  5.8 X
ascher   Los Angeles, CA
  5.8 X
This is severely heady start, even for a strong 5.10+ climber. Nov 23, 2016
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
There is a bolt on the ground that the leader can anchor into (and prob should until the first bolt it clipped) Oct 23, 2012