Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Whitmar & Hammack Dec. 1953
Page Views: 2,320 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A great route, but, no beginner lead and quite possibly x-rated (R+ in the guidebook). Blowing it to the first and/or second bolt would have severe consequences.

That said, fun climbing. Classic Pinnacles.

Lean over, start up the committing moves to the first bolt, and keep a darn cool head. Or, TR it by climbing another route to the summit plateau.

Location

Starts on the pedestal just north of Lunch Rock. Rappel route from anchor bolts on the SE corner of the summit boulder.

Protection

4 very well spaced lead bolts. Scary!

Makes sense that some semblance of belay anchor take place as a fall prior to the first bolt would have dire consequences for both the leader and belayer. Maybe take a set of gear and put something bomber in.

Photos

kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
There is a bolt on the ground that the leader can anchor into (and prob should until the first bolt it clipped) Oct 23, 2012
ascher
Los Angeles, CA
  5.8 X
ascher   Los Angeles, CA
  5.8 X
This is severely heady start, even for a strong 5.10+ climber. Nov 23, 2016