Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T. Davis, M. Harrington, S. Malchelosse, 2/88
Page Views: 4,800 total · 34/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


94 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a good route in the middle of the Monolith's east face. It has 2 starts. You can go from down below and make it 11a or you can start above skipping the first 2 bolts. If you don't go down into the subterranean bit, it goes at 10a or so.

Follow an appealing face with neat, embedded rocks protruding from the matrix. Pass 7 or 9 bolts. There is a runout bit near the top above the last bolt.

Location

This is in the middle of the east face of the Monolith. It is just right of Post Orgasmic Depression.

Protection

7-9 bolts, depending on the start, and a 3 bolt anchor.
Very fun to start from the pit. Only one hard move. Oct 29, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Starts by stepping to the right off of the main platform that most of the routes start off of. This route is the second to the right of POD and immediately right of Hawaiian Noises.

I did the pit start years ago and don't remember it but it does appear to have Leper hangers. Nov 24, 2009
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
A nice easy way to do the bottom section is to clip the first two bolts and then lower into the pit and top rope the bottom section and then lead the rest. A good option for the belayer in winter months. Feb 1, 2013
Powers
San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Powers   San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Pretty fun climb, lots of places to hangout/rest and enjoy the view, so if you are a beginner sport climber and want a climb with more of a challenge, try this one.
Jul 10, 2013
Tony Lobay  
 
I've seen folks lead off with the belayer un-anchored. If they blow it before the first clip, then both them and the belayer are looking at a 30' tumble into the pit. The upside is that the belayer will land on the climber? There are anchor bolts on the ground for the belayer. Nov 22, 2017
Leper hangers noted in 2009 confirmed for first two (subterranean) bolts. 10a portion was a delight (and has lovely bolts). Feb 8, 2018
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.9+
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.9+
There is nothing R rated about this climb.

Public Service Announcement: People, PLEASE DONT TOPROPE THROUGH THE RAPPEL AND LOWERING RINGS UP TOP. Take the time to put some draws on the anchors, and top-rope through your own gear. The lowering gear is severely worn, now needs to be replaced, and should only be used for rapping or lowering, NOT TOP-ROPING. Nov 1, 2018
Isaiah Foulks
Monterey
  5.10a
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
  5.10a
Why TF did someome put an R on this climb?

Edit: after looking at the "opinions" page for this climb, I am shocked so many people think this is an R-rated climb.

Again, there is nothing R-rated about this climb. No, it's not a *tightly bolted* sport route, but don't be discouraged.

Perhaps people are confusing R-rating with Runout, which is not what R-rating means. But what is even more confusing, is that this climb isnt even rounout!

Sure, if youre used to gym climbs, some of the bolt spacing may strike you but I attest this is NOT runout NOR r-rated. Dec 13, 2018