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Routes in Monolith

Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Penguin Handshake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
√úbermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T. Davis, M. Harrington, S. Malchelosse, 2/88
Page Views: 4,673 total · 33/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is a good route in the middle of the Monolith's east face. It has 2 starts. You can go from down below and make it 11a or you can start above skipping the first 2 bolts. If you don't go down into the subterranean bit, it goes at 10a or so.

Follow an appealing face with neat, embedded rocks protruding from the matrix. Pass 7 or 9 bolts. There is a runout bit near the top above the last bolt.


This is in the middle of the east face of the Monolith. It is just right of Post Orgasmic Depression.


7-9 bolts, depending on the start, and a 3 bolt anchor.


Very fun to start from the pit. Only one hard move. Oct 29, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Starts by stepping to the right off of the main platform that most of the routes start off of. This route is the second to the right of POD and immediately right of Hawaiian Noises.

I did the pit start years ago and don't remember it but it does appear to have Leper hangers. Nov 24, 2009
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
A nice easy way to do the bottom section is to clip the first two bolts and then lower into the pit and top rope the bottom section and then lead the rest. A good option for the belayer in winter months. Feb 1, 2013
San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Powers   San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Pretty fun climb, lots of places to hangout/rest and enjoy the view, so if you are a beginner sport climber and want a climb with more of a challenge, try this one.
Jul 10, 2013
Tony Lobay  
I've seen folks lead off with the belayer un-anchored. If they blow it before the first clip, then both them and the belayer are looking at a 30' tumble into the pit. The upside is that the belayer will land on the climber? There are anchor bolts on the ground for the belayer. Nov 22, 2017
Leper hangers noted in 2009 confirmed for first two (subterranean) bolts. 10a portion was a delight (and has lovely bolts). Feb 8, 2018
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
There is nothing R rated about this climb.

Public Service Announcement: People, PLEASE DONT TOPROPE THROUGH THE RAPPEL AND LOWERING RINGS UP TOP. Take the time to put some draws on the anchors, and top-rope through your own gear. The lowering gear is severely worn, now needs to be replaced, and should only be used for rapping or lowering, NOT TOP-ROPING. Nov 1, 2018

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