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Regular Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 61
votes
Routes in East Face
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Cantaloupe of Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cantaloupe of Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Left Hand Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Lodestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Northeast Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Piton Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Post Orgasmic Depression(AKA P.O.D.) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Richnak's Revenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Aid Route T A2 PG13 |
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Wave Rider AKA Merry Cranksters Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Übermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Whitmer & Holden circa 1955 |
| Page Views: | 4,289 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Classic Pinnacles climbing. On February 17, 1935 Dave Brower, Ralph Brower, George Rockwood and Bill Van Voorhis reached the belay ledge at the top of the first pitch of this route by climbing an oak tree and stepping onto the face. They continued to the top by what is now the second pitch of the Regular Route naming their ascent "Left-hand Traverse." It was the first known climb of the Monolith.
Locate the start, which is the most moderate looking face climbing protected by two lead bolts. The route takes a sharp right, pass another bolt, and turn the steep corner into a belay stance. Fun pitch, with great position.
Ramble up the short and easier second pitch, clipping a couple bolts, enroute to the summit plateau. Anchor is located on the NE corner of the summit boulder.
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