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Routes in Monolith

Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
√úbermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Whitmar & Holden
Page Views: 1,931 total, 20/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Classic Pinnacles climbing.

Locate the start, which is the most moderate looking face climbing protected by two lead bolts. The route takes a sharp right, pass another bolt, and turn the steep corner into a belay stance. Fun pitch, with great position.

Ramble up the short and easier second pitch, clipping a couple bolts, enroute to the summit plateau. Anchor is located on the NE corner of the summit boulder.

Location

Located near the right end of the east face of the Monolith. Walk over to the summit boulder and rappel back to the base from the anchor on the SE side of the boulder (rap lines kinda goes down the direct route). Single 60m rope.

Protection

Three lead bolts on the first pitch to a bolted anchor. Pass two bolts on the second pitch to the summit, which has a bolted anchor.

I seem to recall placing a cam or two so maybe a few nuts and cams makes sense for supplemental pro for this route. Otherwise, its fairly head's up climbing with well spaced protected.

Photos

bmdhacks  
 
This is the safest way to ascend the top, and provides access to toprope all the anchors to the left of this climb. I felt the most danger was before the first bolt on the first pitch, and the remaining runouts were super easy climbing / ledge traverses.

I brought gear but found no placements. Feb 23, 2015
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.8 PG13
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.8 PG13
The starting moves to the first bolt are really good (5.8). The rest of the climb isn't anything special. I brought supplemental pro, but didn't place anything. Nov 27, 2011
Christine Page
San Francisco
 
Christine Page   San Francisco
 
At the top, climb the boulder and find a surprise at the top of it. Apr 16, 2011
rhyang
San Jose, CA
 
rhyang   San Jose, CA
 
Brought gear (cams), but didn't use it. Draws / slings probably sufficient for most folks. Nov 26, 2010