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Early Access
Routes in East Face
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Cantaloupe of Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cantaloupe of Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Left Hand Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Lodestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Northeast Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Piton Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Post Orgasmic Depression(AKA P.O.D.) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Richnak's Revenge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Aid Route T A2 PG13 |
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Wave Rider AKA Merry Cranksters Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Übermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 36.47306, -121.18643 |
| FA: | John Whitmer and Dave Hammack December 27, 1953 |
| Page Views: | 326 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Dec 4, 2023 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This was the third route on the Monolith predated only by the "Left-hand Traverse" in 1935 and the "Right-hand Traverse" in 1947. Reportedly several pitons were placed but locating those placements is very difficult. With the addition of routes in the general area and their bolts it is possible to find a few pieces of protection but this is still a very serious climb.
Location
Start at the same place as the Direct Route. Angle up and right heading for lower angle slopes leading to the summit.
Protection
Because you will be clipping bolts on routes added after this climb was done, the number of bolts you clip, and hence the number of quick draws to bring, depends on the actual route taken. It is best to consult a guidebook with a topo before setting out. Rappel from chains on the summit boulder.
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