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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Worrall, et all
Page Views: 268 total, 4/month
Shared By: SCherry on Dec 4, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Starts from the same small ledge and bottom anchors as the route "Miss Brown" and joins that route after 5 bolts of independent climbing. A good bouldery route if you're looking for a harder single pitch affair. The climbing begins just right of a tree and left of the start of "Miss Brown".

Clip the first bolt from the ledge, and then immediately launch into steep terrain. The tricky starting moves (I hear a hold may have broken) gain a good undercling at the second bolt. Then bust a big move off the undercling (looks like taller climbers can move left?) to gain a flat jug. Stand up (knee bar out right helps in clipping the 3rd bolt), get a quick shake and move left to the base of a clean corner (marginal rest here). Tricky stemming leads up the corner to a good hold. Pull out of the corner and climb to your right along an arete to join up with "Miss Brown" below its crux (11b).

The top of "Miss Brown" has 2 different anchors. One straight up that is used if you want to climb "White Bulge" or "Right Bulge" to the top. Or move right after the last bolt to an anchor on "Pony Express" which has 2 biners and is much better to lower back to the ground from.

Location

Scramble up and to the right of the small ledge at the start of the routes "The Pod", "Dedo Grande" and "Ring Finger". You'll have to do a bit of class 4 to get up to a small ledge where you can clip into the belay anchor.

Route #28 in the ACSD topo/guide

Protection

12 quick draws to a lower off.

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