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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 913 total, 16/month
Shared By: SCherry on Feb 21, 2013
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Classic first pitch roof traverse, follows a crack underneath a large 30 foot roof. Steep and fun!

Begins at a set of anchors in a small alcove below the big obvious roof. There are 4 sets of bottom anchors in this section of the wall. The anchors for "Crazy Horse" and "95 Degrees" are the second from the left.

Pitch 1 (12a):Climb up off the belay heading towards the left end of the roof. The first few bolts are shared with "95 Degrees in the Sun" and "95 Degrees in the Shade". The climbing quickly turns from vertical face to steep and big holds. Solve the crux to get into the start of the crack holds below the roof and then manage the pump and exposure as you traverse under the roof for 30 feet on big moves between good holds to a hanging belay just above the terminus of the roof.

You can lower-off from here and climb this as a single pitch, but its difficult for the second with the traversing nature of the climbing.

Pitch 2 (11c or d): Climb up off the belay, slightly left, heading for the bulge crux of "Pony Express". You only clip 2 bolts before you join that line at its crux. Pull the bulge and get a quick shake before moving right into a right facing corner-crack. Follow the crack to its end and move left to a 2-bolt hanging belay.

Pitch 3 (11a): This is one of the best single pitches I've done! Amazing rock, cool holds, and an amazing feature with unreal exposure...so fun!

Move up off the belay into a shallow corner on positive but small holds. A few moves of stemming, turns into face climbing on immaculate white stone. You are gunning for an obvious white arete of rock about 40 feet above the belay. Once you hit the arete you'll be into some of the dreamiest climbing ever as you surmount the exposed arete on amazing rounded jugs with over 400 feet of air under your feet!

Location

Begins at a set of anchors in a small alcove below the big obvious roof. There are 4 sets of bottom anchors in this section of the wall. The anchors for "Crazy Horse" and "95 Degrees" are the second from the left.

Protection

16 quickdraws. Bolted anchors.

Photos

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