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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt, Zach Gelbart, Chris Hubbard (March 2012)
Page Views: 450 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leavittator on May 22, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This route starts the same as Chief Crazy Horse (12a) for the first three bolts or so. When Chief Crazy Horse gets steep and angles up and slightly right, you cut up left, following about 4 independent bolts on steep jugs to a ledge that connects to the belay ledge start of Pony Express (5.11). Note that Chief Crazy Horse actually has two finishes. The original finish goes right at the bolted, angling crack to lower off anchors. This is probably 12a total (and an excellent route). An alternate finish was bolted that skips the traverse and instead heads directly up to a ledge. This is somewhat harder because it stacks another crux on top of the lower one. I was not sure after talking to Sean Shannon if someone redpointed this before I did. Anyway, I digressed because the route 95 Degrees In The Sun stays left of this straight up (harder) finish for Chief Crazy Horse, but ends up on the same ledge as the direct (harder) finish for Chief Crazy Horse. I did this FA of 95 Degrees In The Sun by accident, thinking I was on a route marked complete in the guidebook. It is worthwhile and fun.

Location

Start on Chief Crazy Horse for about 3 bolts, angle left on steep jugs to a belay on a ledge.

Protection

about 7 bolts or so (originally bolted by Sean Shannon, Kevin Worrall). Finishes on a ledge with 2 bolt anchor. From there, you can rap, or continue straight up on 95 Degrees In The Shade (12a) or up and right on Pony Express (11). The real belay ledge at the start of 95 Degrees in The Shade is actually about 20 feet higher than this ledge.

Photos

Leavittator  
 
Was the route red tagged when you did it? Maybe you are talking about the one I described above "An alternate finish was bolted that skips the traverse and instead heads directly up to a ledge" Jan 8, 2013
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Leavittator - it sounds like this is the first pitch (12a) of "95 Degrees in the Shade"?

I've done this route by clipping the first few bolts of "Crazy Horse" and then following a left bolt line (maybe 3 more bolts if memory serves) through steep terrain to a small ledge with an anchor.

I think the ACSD book has this pitch listed in it too. Dec 3, 2012