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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall
Page Views: 2,942 total, 35/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 11, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Pitch one: Starts with a somewhat chossy 10a "approach pitch" that ascends a slaby groove to a steeper section with a small roof at the finish. Above this is a small alcove and the anchors. From here you can climb up to the right onto "More Funky Than Monkey" or out left to the second pitch of Chango.

Pitch two: 11b/c, The second and crux pitch steps left from the belay for a few moves to get established below the headwall. Clip one bolt and ascend the beautiful, steep, pink face for 4 bolts on some of the best jugs at the crag. You are then deposited at the base of a corner. Cop a rest here and stem your way up to the top of the corner and anchors on a slopey ledge. Super fun.

  • *Do the first 2 pitches as one with a 70 meter rope and 15 draws for a stellar way to start this climb. At the end of the second pitch you also have the option to traverse right for about 40 feet (passing the optional belay for the last pitch) to the rappel anchor at the top of "Up Stream". From here with a 60 meter rope you can rappel twice and reach the ground.

Pitch three: 11a, For the final pitch move the belay right along the ledge system about 25 feet, clip one bolt of an optional anchor along the way (belay for "More Funky Than Monkey"). Once established at the furthest right set of anchors on the ledge (these are the anchors of "Up Stream") Climb right from the belay, to the top of a large separated block, make a few easy moves back left and clip the first bolt. Continue to traverse the orange rock to the left following a horizontal feature with your hands to the base of a right facing corner with a thin crack feature (use long slings on the traverse). Once established at the base of the corner, cop a rest, then solve the crux moving into the corner feature on steeper rock. Continue up on easier ground with a small run-out, clipping 3 more bolts en-route to the anchors at the top of the wall.

Location

In the center of the right wall, ascend the grassy ledges to the second of 4 belay stations from the left that mark the start for all the routes on the wall.

Protection

15 quickdraws

Photos

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