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Areas in Eagle Peak

Left Wall 2 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Right Wall 2 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Summit, The 0 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Tan Man Tower 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 3,000 ft
GPS: 32.982, -116.708 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 50,868 total, 604/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 11, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

High quality single, and multi-pitch, sport climbing on beautiful orange and white granite in the San Diego County backcountry. The area is relatively new, developed in the last 5 years, and is comprised of a large main wall and several other satellite areas. Mainly South facing and over 500 feet high in some places, this is a fantastic winter time destination, about an hour and a half drive from downtown SD.

Currently there is a 2008 guidebook available to Eagle Peak routes. Its published by the Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) with route topo's and directions to the Eagle Peak Area (the 2 other backcountry climbing destinations in SD County are also included). Find it at REI or at the ACSD website alliedclimbers.org/index.php
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Getting There

Driving directions are a bit complex: Head out the 8 East from San Diego about 40 minutes, and exit at Descanso for route 79. Take 79 North for 1 mile and turn left on Riverside Drive. In 1 mile turn left on Viejas Grade Rd and immediately right on Oak Grove Drive. In 1.5 miles turn right on Boulder Creek Rd. After 5 miles of pavement and 5 miles of graded dirt, the road crosses Boulder Creek. 2 miles further is the trailhead at a hairpin turn with a gated road and a kiosk. The left hand road leading west on a level ridge is the start of the approach. This is also the start of the hike to the popular Three Sisters Waterfalls.

Approach: About 45 minutes to the summit area. About 45-60 min. to the base of the main wall. Most of this can be made on a mountain bike which cuts the time by about 30 min. (*editors note: the trail in has deteriorated significantly making the mountain biking less than pleasant especially with a large pack on. I recommend just enjoying the walk.)

Pass the gate and follow the ridge for .5 mile, then down to a saddle where the junction with the Three Sisters Waterfall trail branches to the left. Continue straight ahead to the west and uphill for .5 mile, then down hill for less than .5 mile. The trail leaves the drainage and hooks to the left (south) climbing slightly and traversing around a small ridge. Just after crossing a gully with a dried up stream bed, the trail becomes steep and switchbacks right. Within 100 feet you will come to a fork. The trail to the "main wall" branches left at the fork. Stay straight to approach the "summit" area and the true Summit of Eagle Peak.

If you stay on the "Main Wall" trail you will gain a pass in about 100 yards with a great view of the top of the cliff, Tan Man Tower and the back of the El Capitan Res. To reach the climbs descend 450 vertical feet to the base of the wall.

  • Editors Note: the best way to enjoy your day at Eagle Peak, is to stash your packs at the top of the cliff (there is a large boulder at the cliff edge that is in front of the obvious Tan Man Tower. You can see it from pass before descending), rack up, and walk down (5 min) to the base and climb out. Not only does this save you the extra steep slog on the way out, but also helps you avoid hanging out at the base for too long. As with most of the San Diego backcountry cliffs, the base can be brutally hot in the sun. Once you're up a pitch there is almost always a nice breeze making the climbing more tolerable.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cruise Line
Sport 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Up Stream
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tan Man Corner
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Face
Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tan Man Left Arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Southwest Face
Sport 5 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Miss Brown
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bush Doctor
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soy Chango
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Pod
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
The Direct Route
Sport 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Tucker Arete
Sport 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boots On The Ground
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Arete Right Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cruise Line Left Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Up Stream Right Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Tan Man Corner Tan Man Tower 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Baby Face Left Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Tan Man Left Arete Tan Man Tower 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Southwest Face Left Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
Miss Brown Right Wall 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Bush Doctor Tan Man Tower 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Soy Chango Right Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Power Pod Right Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Direct Route Left Wall 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
Fly Away Roof Right Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Tail Tucker Arete Left Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Boots On The Ground Right Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Peak »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Clay Young
Fremont, CA
Clay Young   Fremont, CA
If anyone finds a blue Mammut chalk bag, please call (805)550-7083! Clay Young needs his chalk thank you so much. He left it there after topping out Cruise Line in the dark. Ya'll have a great day. Perfect conditions. No one on this wall and super fun sport climbing. Police are cool with people camping there for free love it. Jun 7, 2017
Clay Young
Fremont, CA
Clay Young   Fremont, CA
If anyone finds a blue Mammut chalk bag, please call (805)550-7083! Clay Young needs his chalk thank you so much. He left it there after topping out Cruise Line in the dark. Ya'll have a great day. Perfect conditions. No one on this wall and super fun sport climbing. Police are cool with people camping there for free love it. Jun 7, 2017
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Anyone lose a Prana chalk bag in the boulders near where the trail splits to go above or below the cliffband? Mar 28, 2017
The USFS has a responsibility to identify active nests early in the season, and then making appropriate, reasonable closures. They have a history of taking the easy way out and calling closures based on historic nest sites instead of monitoring the crag and adjusting their closure(s) based on real time data.

Common sense is all that's required. Falcons are badass predators and fully capable of defending their young. If the "experts" in the USFS want to help them w closures, those closures need to be based on current conditions, and in line with standard perimeters. Climbers will respect those closures.

Otherwise, the Falcons and the climbers they divebomb decide the closure boundaries. Jan 11, 2017
I WISH BIRDS WOULD COME TO WOODSON AND DIVINGBOMB WHOEVER IS BOLTING THERE LOCALS ONLY BREH YOU WOULDNT UNDERSTAND!11!!1!! May 30, 2016
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
Nesting at eagle peak has continued to fail. As an administrator perhaps it would be best not to downplay the seriousness of disturbing their habitat. They will most definitely dive bomb anyone they consider a threat. May 27, 2016
Generally speaking, birds of prey are not that agitated by outdoor human activity. The biggest threats to them are power lines and environmental contamination (e.g., pesticides, non-target poisoning) not rock climbers. May 24, 2016
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
The falcons have nested on the ledge above Soy Chango. I think the closure really should cover the whole cliff. My son and I went out yesterday thinking we'd be able to climb on the right wall, but their location does not allow it. I tried to climb Crazy Horse, thinking we'd be out of the way, but I was dive bombed repeatedly by one angry falcon mid-route. We bailed so we wouldn't disturb them (and so that I wouldn't get killed). May 23, 2016
jdl
jdl  
Here's the notice from the Forest Service

It looks like the closure is everything left of the Direct Route on the main wall until July. My understanding is that this is the same as in seasons past?

Lots of great stuff still open. Mar 16, 2016
Matthew McMillan
Orange, CA
Matthew McMillan   Orange, CA
Big closures coming soon ya'll. Just thought I'd let ya know.

fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan… Feb 10, 2016
Jeff Peabody
Missoula, MT
Jeff Peabody   Missoula, MT
Im in town for work and stopped by eagle peak to climb on my only day off so far.
I believe I left my grigri at the base of power pod.

Its a blue grigri 2 with a orange pear-shaped carabiner.

If anybody picks it up before I make it out there again, please send me a message.
Ill buy you a couple beers!

Cheers,

-Jeff
EDIT POST Feb 20, 2015
ChadC
San Diego CA
ChadC   San Diego CA
Eagle Peak has quickly become my favorite crag in San Diego. An hour away from downtown, easy approach, and a a lot of amazing multi pitch sport routes. I am always surprised there is barely anyone on the weekends here. Seems to be kind of a secret still.

The SDAC Pocket Guide is super helpful out here. There is so many options for linking pitches together to make them harder or easier. The only way to truly map it out is with this book.

If you can lead 5.10. I would differently take a trip out here Feb 24, 2014
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Camping is legal right off the road at the parking area. Although there are no amenities (no water, toilets, tables, etc). Just a short stroll down the trail are some nice spots to pitch a tent but you would have hikers in the morning walking right by your camp. Never heard of anyone staying in Alpine. Oct 13, 2013
jenrau
Thousand Oaks, California
jenrau   Thousand Oaks, California
We are thinking of heading out for a long weekend. Would you all suggest staying in alpine? Or do people camp out there? Oct 7, 2013
jenrau
Thousand Oaks, California
jenrau   Thousand Oaks, California
We are thinking of heading out for a long weekend. Would you all suggest staying in alpine? Or do people camp out there? Oct 7, 2013
We installed probably 100 double quicklinks, 2 per bolt, on most belay/rap anchors, and nearly all of them were taken by climbers who don't get it, and think their personal needs are more important. I also had my gear stashes pilfered more than once out there.

After building the trail, cleaning loose rock and dirt off lots of now clean routes, placing 1500 bolts, and placing 100s of dollars of what were supposed to be permanent links for everyone's convenience, my work and investment is done.

If you think there's a problem with the rap anchors - fix it.

On a brighter note - enjoy the climbing... Feb 19, 2013
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
RNClimber - Eagle Peak was set up as a multi-pitch area. There are some anchor stations with rap rings or leaver biners but they get moved all the time by people who are trying to rap in like you.

Rapping in from the top is a mistake, especially when it takes all of 5 minutes to walk down to the base with flip flops on. The only reason to do so is if you are trying to project an upper pitch.

The beta is to stash your stuff at the top, rack up, and walk down to the base and climb out. Then you can have a snack and water and do it again. Quite often I climb 10-15 pitches in a day this way.

Jan 30, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
I've never seen so many anchors on a wall without rap rings. Is there a reason why at this wall? My partner and I rapped from the top down but had to maneuver from one belay station to another using scattered anchors with rap rings and using bail biners we found on rap anchors/belay stations without them...

Baby face was a prime example. You can climb the first pitch and get to a belay station with rap rings, but you climb another 10 feet up to belay for the 2nd pitch on 3 bolts without rings/chains. After the 2nd pitch you get to another belay station without rings/chains, but then the 4th pitch belay has rings... Jan 28, 2013
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
This is awesome. Thanks for getting the info on here. I can't wait to check this place out. Feb 5, 2011
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Hey San Diego climbers - I just added this area to the database. I'm a Boulder climber that just relocated to SD and have visited Eagle Peak several times. Really rad climbing for the area, and a truly special place. Please add routes and areas if you have climbed here and have good beta. Open to suggestions as well. Jan 12, 2011

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