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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt, Glenn Svenson, Zach Gelbart (April 2012)
Page Views: 1,096 total, 16/month
Shared By: Leavittator on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

An initial very steep boulder problem crux gains incredible rock above. This pitch is one of the best, of any grade, at Eagle Peak.

Location

This route climbs incredible rock on a wall on the far right side of Eagle Peak. This wall/section is located to to the right of Lucky Stars and above and right of the White Arete. You can access it by rappel from the top or climb up and right 50 feet from the anchors on White Arete. There are two routes on the left side of this red/brown wall. They are "Bait and Switch" 12d that follows the left hand seam and "Boots On The Ground" 12b that goes up the overhang boulder problem to the slightly overhung wall above. Both climbs start from the same ledge with bolt anchors. Top out or rappel down.

Protection

7 bolts to bolt anchors

Photos

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Great rock for sure! Reminiscent of Hueco Tanks in a way, with the smooth texture and the scalloped dishes and holes. A fun onsight challenge with no chalk on key holds since you need to go for it, especially at the start but above too. Nice addition! Jan 12, 2016
Leavittator  
 
Yes, there are anchors at the base of that wall - on the logical spot/ledge area Jan 8, 2013
SCherry
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
SCherry   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Leavitator - did you add bolted anchors at the base of this wall where the climb begins? I was up at the belay for "Fly Away Roof" this past weekend and was trying to see where the anchors at the base of the orange wall were located? I could see a logical ledge but the anchors are not visible. Just want to make sure before I go out again and rap in to try these routes. Dec 10, 2012