Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Toucho Randino S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall and Sean Shannon
Page Views: 551 total · 12/month
Shared By: SCherry on Mar 24, 2014 with updates
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Starts just up and right of Lunch Rock. Red Dihedral is technically the next line right of Cruise Line.

The first 2 pitches are bolted but the final pitch to the summit requires a single rack to #2 camalots.

Starting beta - The easiest way to begin this route is by using the 2 bolt belay at the base of "Soul Terrain". Have your leader clip it with an extendable draw and then traverse the sloping grassy ledge left to a 2-bolt belay at the base of Ring Finger and Red Dihedral. If 11a is at your limit your leader may want to bring you over and you can belay the 1st pitch from this station.

Pitch 1:(11a, bolts) climb up left off the belay (currently a little over grown) into a deep left facing corner. Climb out of the corner (crux) and up staying to the left of the bolt line for Ring Finger. The line follows to the left of a shallow corner/trough feature up to finish at a shared 2-bolt station with Ring Finger at the base of an obvious right facing dihedral.

Pitch 2:(11b, bolts) Beautiful stemming up the corner for a few bolts leads to an obvious traverse on sloping holds. Stand up after the traverse and balance to clip a high bolt. Navigate the tricky crux to get established on a slab with a few more tricky moves to a nice small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings. At this point you are at the base of another prominent left facing corner with, you guessed it, redish colored rock. As of this time the corner here is a little overgrown with some grasses. Most parties will do 2 rappels from here to the ground.

Pitch 3:(10a, Gear) Climb up the corner past a couple grassy spots for about 40 feet then once out of the corner trend to the right (below the large cactus garden ledge) into another broken crack system that is climbed to the top. This pitch is a rope stretcher, and is the shared summit pitch for the all-gear line Cactus Couloir.

Location

From Lunch Rock, locate the obvious trail heading up through some choke cherry brush for about 10-15 feet to a terrace that is the start of several routes including "The Pod" "Ring Finger" and "Dedo Grande". The easiest way to begin this route is by using the 2 bolt belay at the base of "Soul Terrain".

Protection

12 draws and a single rack to #3 Camalot (if doing the last pitch). You can easily just climb the first 2 pitches and rap back down to lunch rock with a 60 meter rope.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments