Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Kevin Worrall and Sean Shannon|
|Page Views:||941 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||SCherry on Mar 24, 2014 · Updates|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
The first 2 pitches are bolted but the final pitch to the summit requires a single rack to #2 camalots.
Starting beta - The easiest way to begin this route is by using the 2 bolt belay at the base of "Soul Terrain". Have your leader clip it with an extendable draw and then traverse the sloping grassy ledge left to a 2-bolt belay at the base of Ring Finger and Red Dihedral. If 11a is at your limit your leader may want to bring you over and you can belay the 1st pitch from this station.
Pitch 1:(11a, bolts) climb up left off the belay (currently a little over grown) into a deep left facing corner. Climb out of the corner (crux) and up staying to the left of the bolt line for Ring Finger. The line follows to the left of a shallow corner/trough feature up to finish at a shared 2-bolt station with Ring Finger at the base of an obvious right facing dihedral.
Pitch 2:(11b, bolts) Beautiful stemming up the corner for a few bolts leads to an obvious traverse on sloping holds. Stand up after the traverse and balance to clip a high bolt. Navigate the tricky crux to get established on a slab with a few more tricky moves to a nice small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings. At this point you are at the base of another prominent left facing corner with, you guessed it, redish colored rock. As of this time the corner here is a little overgrown with some grasses. Most parties will do 2 rappels from here to the ground.
Pitch 3:(10a, Gear) Climb up the corner past a couple grassy spots for about 40 feet then once out of the corner trend to the right (below the large cactus garden ledge) into another broken crack system that is climbed to the top. This pitch is a rope stretcher, and is the shared summit pitch for the all-gear line Cactus Couloir.