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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon
Page Views: 1,412 total, 17/month
Shared By: SCherry on Feb 3, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Up Stream

Super classic 2 pitch 5.10 on the steeper "Right Wall". The second pitch is a great warm-up on bomber brown rock with amazing jugs and crack features. With long runners and good rope management you can lead this in one long pitch. You can also use this pitch to approach some of the upper pitches that top out (last pitch of "Fly Away Roof" "Soy Chango" or "Crazy Horse").

Pitch 1: 10a. Start at the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the "Right Wall". From here take the left line of bolts-the same as the first pitch of "Fly Away Roof" (the right line is the first pitch of "Lucky Stars"). Negotiate some choss and gain a clean slab at bolt 2. You are avoiding a grassy, plant filled corner to your left. Climb up the steepening slab below a small roof feature on the left. Climb around the right side of the roof and before you enter a right facing corner head back left to a belay on a small ledge formed at the top the roof feature. 50 feet.

Pitch 2: 10c. The money pitch. Climb left along the ledge to a right facing corner with a crack. Layback up and clip the first bolt below a bulge of brown rock. Climb up and over the bulge to a rest ledge (there is an optional set of anchors on the left side of the ledge). From here climb up and hand traverse right along a blocky jug feature to gain a crack below a left facing corner. Layback and jam up the crack as the wall steepens to the base of an overhanging panel. Cop a rest and climb through the overhang on jugs just to the right of an obvious thin crack on your left. Gain the top of the overhang and move left past a large detached block (using it for handholds). Just to the left of the block are the anchors (with quick links) on a perfect ledge of orange rock. 100 feet.

Location

Scramble up the series of grassy ledges (approach from the right side of the wall) to locate the rightmost set of 4 anchor bolts at the base of the steep "Right Wall". These are located just to the left of the obvious "White Arete" feature. The climb takes the left line of bolts from here (the right line is the route "Lucky Stars").

Protection

15 quick draws. Rappell from any of the anchors, or continue up an alternate pitch to the summit.

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