Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
|Type:||Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon|
|Page Views:||3,034 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||SCherry on Feb 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Pitch 1: 10a. Start at the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the "Right Wall". From here take the left line of bolts-the same as the first pitch of "Fly Away Roof" (the right line is the first pitch of "Lucky Stars"). Negotiate some choss and gain a clean slab at bolt 2. You are avoiding a grassy, plant filled corner to your left. Climb up the steepening slab below a small roof feature on the left. Climb around the right side of the roof and before you enter a right facing corner head back left to a belay on a small ledge formed at the top the roof feature. 50 feet.
Pitch 2: 10c. The money pitch. Climb left along the ledge to a right facing corner with a crack. Layback up and clip the first bolt below a bulge of brown rock. Climb up and over the bulge to a rest ledge (there is an optional set of anchors on the left side of the ledge). From here climb up and hand traverse right along a blocky jug feature to gain a crack below a left facing corner. Layback and jam up the crack as the wall steepens to the base of an overhanging panel. Cop a rest and climb through the overhang on jugs just to the right of an obvious thin crack on your left. Gain the top of the overhang and move left past a large detached block (using it for handholds). Just to the left of the block are the anchors (with quick links) on a perfect ledge of orange rock. 100 feet.