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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon
Page Views: 827 total, 10/month
Shared By: SCherry on Feb 2, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Classic line that takes the obvious weakness through the steep roof feature that caps the right hand side of the "Right Wall".

Pitch 1: 10a. Take the left line of bolts off the belay (the right line is the first pitch of "Lucky Stars"). This is the same as the first pitch of "Up Stream" but goes to a belay a little higher. Negotiate some choss that leads onto a clean slab after bolt 2 and right of a grassy, plant filled corner. The wall turns more vertical just below a small roof feature on the left. Climb up past the right end of the roof and gain a small right facing corner with bolts on the left arete (you will notice a small ledge on top of the roof with anchors to the left of the corner feature - this is the belay for "Up Stream"). Climb up this to a 2 bolt belay (quick links and bolts painted white) just below an obvious right trending seam under a small roof band where the wall turns vertical. 60 feet.

Pitch 2: 11d. Negotiate the right trending seam (crux) and up into blocky terrain to the right of a right facing corner. This pitch has a few cruxy sections followed by rests. Belay on a large ledge just below the obvious overhang that caps the wall. 80 feet.

Pitch 3: The Fly Away Roof, 11d. Slab climb up and right through some amazing "orange grip tape" rock, then back left on a flake which you mantle and reach the obvious undercling crack that forms the weakness through the roof. Cop a rest here then traverse the undercling crack right to a small right facing corner in the steep panel. Bust the sequential crux up through the overhanging panel and up onto a ledge with a two bolt belay. Belay here or continue on easy ground to an anchor located on the left side of the large boulder at the top of the wall (another 25 feet). 80 feet to the boulder atop the wall.

Location

Right hand side of the steep "Right Wall". Begins from the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the wall. Just left of the route "White Arete".

Protection

15 quick draws

Photos

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