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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Toucho Randino S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 1,160 total · 13/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jul 1, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Another quality single pitch line, just up from Lunch Rock. Starts from the small ledge at the base of "The Pod" and "Dedo Grande", and is a decent warm-up if you can crack climb.

Begin by clipping a 2-bolt anchor (use a long draw) that is at the base of the route "Soul Terrain". You'll see this anchor just a step up and left of the main part of the terrace. From here traverse left over a small grassy ledge until you see another 2-bolt anchor just above you and below a small tree.

  • Once you clip this second anchor your belayer can step up and unclip the first draw to reduce drag. I recommend having your belayer clip direct into this anchor to safely belay the rest of the pitch (this will save your he/she from getting pulled off the terrace if you take a fall).

Climb up from the second anchor on big holds to a small ledge with a bulge above it. Pull up over the bulge and get established in the obvious left facing corner system. Stem and jam your way up the beautiful corner with increasing difficulty. At the top there is a nice rest.

From here its a bit tricky to read the route:

The crack you just climbed in the corner continues up and right from the rest, and its tempting...

But...think twice because there is an obvious arete right in front of you. I climb the arete using nice crimps out left, make a rad high-step that enables a long reach to a good horizontal hold. Match this hold, and move left to cool, large knobby holds in another corner system. Climb on the right side of this corner on more good holds until the route ends with a 2-bolt anchor with chains (shared with the 3-pitch route "Red Dihedral").

Location

At the base of the main wall just up and right from Lunch Rock. There is a small sandy terrace that is the start of 5 or 6 routes. Ring Finger starts from a 2-bolt belay on the left side of the terrace.

Protection

12 quick draws

Photos

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ChadC
San Diego CA
 
ChadC   San Diego CA
 
You can connect to cruise line by going right at the traverse ledge. Making it a 4 pitch route all around 10a to 10c Feb 24, 2014
a couple of those first jugs feel loose but I'm 200# and didnt dislodge em... Apr 30, 2018

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