Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Worrall,Shannon, et all
Page Views: 704 total · 8/month
Shared By: SCherry on Mar 24, 2014
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Starts at the 2-bolt "Oven Belay" shared with the start of Crazy Horse and 95 Degrees in the Sun. This is often the hottest spot on the cliff, out of the wind, and can be brutally baking for the belayer.

Pitch 1:(12a)- Short and steep pitch that shares the first 4 bolts with Crazy Horse. Tricky on-sight. Leave the belay and climb right on white softer rock up past 3 bolts then gain a stance below the steep climbing. Clip the last shared bolt as the climb steepens and moves left for a final 3 bolts through a super steep roof (crux). Once over the roof make a couple more moves, and either go right to the 2-bolt belay on Pony Express (decent stance here), or go left into a short corner for 15 feet of easier climbing to anchors on a sloping ledge to the left (hanging belay). This belay is at the base of a beautiful green lichen covered wall.

Pitch 2:(12b)- Move off the belay to the right and figure out how to squeeze into the obvious strange pod feature. Stand up and climb right from the pod to where the wall gets vertical. Climb up into a short finger crack that ends at a big rest jug. Then climb up and right under a large white colored flake to the crux. Probably 2 ways to do this section; I climbed right into some very small right hand side pulls in a scoop, and the small crimps to a big move to a jug to the right of the last bolt, but there also must be a way to climb left and use the big flake (maybe taller beta?). Either way the climb ends at a nice ledge that is shared with the final belay for White Arete.

Pitch 3:(5.10)- Climb up and to the left off the belay (the final 10a pitch of White Arete climbs to the right) into an obvious corner feature and then out onto the face above for a final 40-50 feet of climbing to the top of the wall. Good moderate pitch.

Location

Begins from the 4th set of base anchors (if counting from the left). Best approached by carefully scrambling in from the right. Easiest path is to climb up past the base anchors for Soy Chango and keep going left to the obvious alcove I've dubbed "the oven belay".

Protection

16 bolts. All bolted belays

Photos

- No Photos -