Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Toucho Randino S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Worrall,Shannon, et all
Page Views: 256 total · 5/month
Shared By: SCherry on Mar 24, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Starts at the 2-bolt "Oven Belay" shared with the start of Crazy Horse and 95 Degrees in the Sun. This is often the hottest spot on the cliff, out of the wind, and can be brutally baking for the belayer.

Pitch 1:(12a)- Short and steep pitch that shares the first 4 bolts with Crazy Horse. Tricky on-sight. Leave the belay and climb right on white softer rock up past 3 bolts then gain a stance below the steep climbing. Clip the last shared bolt as the climb steepens and moves left for a final 3 bolts through a super steep roof (crux). Once over the roof make a couple more moves, and either go right to the 2-bolt belay on Pony Express (decent stance here), or go left into a short corner for 15 feet of easier climbing to anchors on a sloping ledge to the left (hanging belay). This belay is at the base of a beautiful green lichen covered wall.

Pitch 2:(12b)- Move off the belay to the right and figure out how to squeeze into the obvious strange pod feature. Stand up and climb right from the pod to where the wall gets vertical. Climb up into a short finger crack that ends at a big rest jug. Then climb up and right under a large white colored flake to the crux. Probably 2 ways to do this section; I climbed right into some very small right hand side pulls in a scoop, and the small crimps to a big move to a jug to the right of the last bolt, but there also must be a way to climb left and use the big flake (maybe taller beta?). Either way the climb ends at a nice ledge that is shared with the final belay for White Arete.

Pitch 3:(5.10)- Climb up and to the left off the belay (the final 10a pitch of White Arete climbs to the right) into an obvious corner feature and then out onto the face above for a final 40-50 feet of climbing to the top of the wall. Good moderate pitch.

Location

Begins from the 4th set of base anchors (if counting from the left). Best approached by carefully scrambling in from the right. Easiest path is to climb up past the base anchors for Soy Chango and keep going left to the obvious alcove I've dubbed "the oven belay".

Protection

16 bolts. All bolted belays

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About 95 Degrees in the Shade

Printer-Friendly Guide