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Routes in Right Wall

95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boots On The Ground S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dedo Grande S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ring Finger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kevin Worrall
Page Views: 790 total, 9/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 11, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Excellent face climbing up a beautiful chunk of bullet hard brown rock, at the far left end of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green streaked wall of "Tiki Man" (12b). This route marks the start of the steep recess that comprises the Right Wall

Pitch 1 begins at a bolted belay that is also shared as the start of the route "Tiki Man" which ascends the beautiful green streaked face. Reach up from the small ledge at the bolted belay and grab a large flake (caution: this may need some glue/reinforcement as it was flexing and cracked, so pull down, not out). Clip the first bolt and negotiate the steep crux (hint: heel hook). Reach up to a jug on the top left end of a ledge system and clip the second bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and get a shake at the base of some stacked corners to your left. Continue up on some amazingly cool holds and deceptively easy ground to a small overlap. Negotiate the second face climbing crux and climb up until you can exit into a big right facing corner.

From here you have 2 main options. To do the upper pitches continue up the corner to your left about 20 feet to an anchor below the routes "White Bulge" and "Right Bulge". Note that the upper pitches of "Miss Brown" require gear and ring in at 10d and 10a respectively. To do the route as a single pitch, clip a bolt out to the right of the corner and traverse up and right for 15-20 feet to a rappel anchor on the route "Mind Bender".

Location

At the far left end of the steep recess of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green face of "Tiki Man." Traverse the grassy ledge systems all the way to the left and the 1st set of anchor bolts (if counting from the right) just above a small ledge system. A short bit of 4th class must be negotiated to reach the anchor bolts at the base. You can also approach from the left side of the wall by traversing up and right from Lunch Rock (on second attempt this may be easier as it avoids more of the chossy ledge scrambling).

If doing just the first pitch you can lower with a 60 meter rope.

Protection

12 quickdraws for pitch one. Standard rack if you decide to do the final 2 gear pitches

Photos

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SCherry, you can lower off the Mind Bender Anchors and there are quick links there. May 2, 2012
SCherry
Boulder, CO
 
SCherry   Boulder, CO
 
Next time I climb this first pitch I plan on bringing either some spare carabiners or some quick links so I can equip the anchor at the top of the corner for a lower-off. This will make climbing Miss Brown as a single pitch route much easier to clean. Of course, you still have the option to traverse right to the Mind Bender anchors and do some upper pitches/lower off from there. Feb 22, 2011