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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Frank Sacherer, Galen Rowel (Nov, '62)
Page Views: 719 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 10, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The right side of the Worst Error Pinnacle is a lot like the left side, except it's a bit shorter, a bit harder, and not quite as classic. It is, however, still an excellent chimney climb and well worth doing if you've already done the left side and are looking for more of the same. Approach as you would for Pink Dream by ascending up to the right of Elephant rock and then traverse over to the base on a ledge system that crosses the slabs.

Pitch 1: This one is a sort of ugly approach pitch up a tree filled gully for about 150ft. The guidebook calls this pitch 5.6 mostly because it lacks exposure and just has short sections of climbing between big ledges. Some of those short sections of climbing feel more like 5.9 than 5.6 however! Belay at a large chockstone with trees growing near it at the base of the huge chimney system.

Pitch 2: Up the chimney you go. There's no faking your way up this one. There's precious few edges or anything really to get your hands or feet on. And unless you brought big bros there's no gear until about 160ft up, at the top of the chimney. The chimney is pretty secure and the rock is excellent with good friction and felt about 5.7. At the top of a chimney is a short section of 5.9 fist jamming that is well protected by medium to large size cams. Belay at a small but comfy shelf below a historic 2-bolt anchor (backed up by solid 1" to 3" gear).

Pitch 3: Above is an overhanging slot and the difficulty of this section will largely depend on how large of a person you are. It takes a #6 Camalot in a constriction near the start of it, but if you want anything else you'll need Big Bros or Valley Giants. With my light frame, I was able to move out to near the edge and then wiggle straight up into the chimney which felt no harder than 5.9. If you are not able to fit inside a 10" crack you will need to climb the horribly flared outer section of the crack which is probably at least 5.10. Either way, this will take you to an expanding notch between the pinnacle and the main wall. This gap becomes too wide to stem and the easiest place to top out is way in the back, near where the Left Side route finishes. I was afraid the rope would drag my #6 into the crack if I moved that far back, so I finished up a right facing flake/feature more near the center of the wall which was pretty scary.

To descend, rappel Hotline with two ropes or one 80m.

Protection

I carried a huge rack and suffered for it in the chimneys. If I had it to do over I would bring just five cams (in BD Camalot sizes: #1,2,3,4, and a #6) plus four extendable draws/runners. And that's it.

If you are the type of person that's too big to fit through the Narrows, or if you just get spooked by 100+ ft runouts in squeeze chimneys you will definitely want to bring some bigger pro, maybe up to 10"?

Photos

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Bryan G
Yosemite
 
Bryan G   Yosemite
 
This is a good photo of the Right Side route.

Aug 10, 2012