Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Frank Sacherer, Galen Rowel (Nov, '62)|
|Page Views:||960 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Aug 10, 2012|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Pitch 1: This one is a sort of ugly approach pitch up a tree filled gully for about 150ft. The guidebook calls this pitch 5.6 mostly because it lacks exposure and just has short sections of climbing between big ledges. Some of those short sections of climbing feel more like 5.9 than 5.6 however! Belay at a large chockstone with trees growing near it at the base of the huge chimney system.
Pitch 2: Up the chimney you go. There's no faking your way up this one. There's precious few edges or anything really to get your hands or feet on. And unless you brought big bros there's no gear until about 160ft up, at the top of the chimney. The chimney is pretty secure and the rock is excellent with good friction and felt about 5.7. At the top of a chimney is a short section of 5.9 fist jamming that is well protected by medium to large size cams. Belay at a small but comfy shelf below a historic 2-bolt anchor (backed up by solid 1" to 3" gear).
Pitch 3: Above is an overhanging slot and the difficulty of this section will largely depend on how large of a person you are. It takes a #6 Camalot in a constriction near the start of it, but if you want anything else you'll need Big Bros or Valley Giants. With my light frame, I was able to move out to near the edge and then wiggle straight up into the chimney which felt no harder than 5.9. If you are not able to fit inside a 10" crack you will need to climb the horribly flared outer section of the crack which is probably at least 5.10. Either way, this will take you to an expanding notch between the pinnacle and the main wall. This gap becomes too wide to stem and the easiest place to top out is way in the back, near where the Left Side route finishes. I was afraid the rope would drag my #6 into the crack if I moved that far back, so I finished up a right facing flake/feature more near the center of the wall which was pretty scary.
To descend, rappel Hotline with two ropes or one 80m.
If you are the type of person that's too big to fit through the Narrows, or if you just get spooked by 100+ ft runouts in squeeze chimneys you will definitely want to bring some bigger pro, maybe up to 10"?