Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dale Bard and Ron Kauk (1976)
Page Views: 88 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Sky is a steep and burly lieback corner up the left side of the knobby headwall above the Worst Error. If approaching from below, it shares the same start as Hocus Pocus. Where Hocus Pocus moves out onto the arête, for Sky you will want to establish a belay on the large slanted ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. This approach from below isn’t recommended because the lead rack for Sky is quite hefty and you will need to carry it up whatever approach climb you do. If approaching from above, simply fix a rope and rap down to the ledge. The bolted anchor at the top consists of two ¼” bolts (one is missing a hanger), but you can tie your rope off to other stuff to back it up.

The corner is straightforward liebacking up the offwidth crack. The lower bulge has some footholds and is easier. Then you get a stemming rest in the more vertical section to shake out. The upper bulge is steeper and more sustained and thankfully there are two 4” bongs pounded in the crack which will supplement your rack of cams. Above the corner is a sort of loose chimney which leads to the top.

Protection

Pro 3”-6” but mainly 3.5”-4.5”. Bring all the #4 and #5 Camalots that you and your friends own. It’s a lieback so you can’t just walk your cams up with you like most offwidths.

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