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Routes in r. Elephant Rock

Book of Hate T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dale Bard and Ron Kauk (1976)
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Sky is a steep and burly lieback corner up the left side of the knobby headwall above the Worst Error. If approaching from below, it shares the same start as Hocus Pocus. Where Hocus Pocus moves out onto the arête, for Sky you will want to establish a belay on the large slanted ledge below the obvious left-facing corner. This approach from below isn’t recommended because the lead rack for Sky is quite hefty and you will need to carry it up whatever approach climb you do. If approaching from above, simply fix a rope and rap down to the ledge. The bolted anchor at the top consists of two ¼” bolts (one is missing a hanger), but you can tie your rope off to other stuff to back it up.

The corner is straightforward liebacking up the offwidth crack. The lower bulge has some footholds and is easier. Then you get a stemming rest in the more vertical section to shake out. The upper bulge is steeper and more sustained and thankfully there are two 4” bongs pounded in the crack which will supplement your rack of cams. Above the corner is a sort of loose chimney which leads to the top.

Protection

Pro 3”-6” but mainly 3.5”-4.5”. Bring all the #4 and #5 Camalots that you and your friends own. It’s a lieback so you can’t just walk your cams up with you like most offwidths.

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