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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Kurt Smith and Tucker Tech (Oct, '88)
Page Views: 255 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Elephant Talk is located on the far left side of the top of the formation. It is approached by rappelling in from above. The Reid guide has a pretty good topo showing the distinctive looking boulder and trees at the top. The rap anchors are down over the side in a little gully next to a flake.

The rock over on the upper section of the East Face is very different than most of the Elephant Rock granite. It is more like the rock in Joshua Tree or Alabama hills with great friction and lots of patina and edges. There are some large rotten flakes on the lower and upper portions of the climb which detract from the quality, but the bulk of the route consists of "hero climbing" on good edges up a golden head-wall with spectacular exposure.

The climb has a bit of an indistinct start. If you are mini-traxion soloing the route, start climbing just below the lowest bolt. If you want to rap in and lead out, then I guess you can build an anchor down under the roof and to the left (the start of the Guru Cracks) and then climb up rotten flakes leading up and right to the first bolt. The crux is in the middle of the route with another crux at the end where you move over into some more large flakes. Finish up a gully back to the bolted anchor.

Protection

Bolts, and you need to build a gear anchor at the start if planning to lead.

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