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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell and Kevin Worrall, May 1974
Page Views: 1,639 total, 22/month
Shared By: Alexey on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Approach: Walk down from h/w 41 from Elephant's parking lot ~30-40 min. From parking lot you moving right on the faint trail following edge of vertical wall about 7 min and than looking for steep passage down. After that moving down steep slope toward the base of the route. No visible trail, at least I did not see it.
Climb the route and you back to the car. No decent like for Rostrum. Morning sun until 11:30 am and than route in the shade to the end of the day. You can see impressive triangle formed by Reality Check 10c and Plumb line on the aproach.

①. P1 corner crack 5.8 - corner which lead to ledge and traverse right to the alcove. It was section were crack diminished and you need to reach via blank face to the ledge. Probably 5.8 if you 6'2". Not me. one 10+ move, 100 ft.

②. Crux Pitch: P2 begin with overhanging wide hands in the corner and we were thinking that crux would be higher where crack be widen to 4 inches . No crux was higher for #5 and #6 size. long , hard, sustained and constantly changing the size. Geometry of the crack demand from you changing your technique every other foot. We stop in the bottom of wide pod 50 ft short to the end of p2 - adding those 50 ft [10b] later to pitch 3. The full pitch as shown on topo 150ft. 10d

③. P3.Started from the ledge- fists , hands some wide 10a, 150ft

④. P4 - 5.8 slot? it felt more like 10a/b

Protection

Double from green alien to Blue camalot.
#4 Friend, #4 Cam #5 Friend, #5 Cam, #6 Cam

Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The second pitch is probably one of the best pitches of 5.10 crack in the Valley. It's nice to save a couple cams in the 2-3" range for the anchor. Three #3 Camalots wouldn't go unused. The other pitches are also enjoyable and will improve with more traffic/cleaning. Pitch 1 is definitely 5.10 at the top of the corner. It looks like there is also a alternate start to P1 to the right, up a chimney past a bay tree, but it's probably not good quality.

The optimal approach is the NE Face Fixed Line Rappel described on this page
Much faster, no poison oak, and you don't have to carry approach shoes up the climb. Apr 15, 2013