Type: Trad, 410 ft (124 m), 4 pitches
FA: Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell and Kevin Worrall, May 1974
Page Views: 3,024 total · 20/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Approach: Walk down from h/w 41 from Elephant's parking lot ~30-40 min. From parking lot you moving right on the faint trail following edge of vertical wall about 7 min and than looking for steep passage down. After that moving down steep slope toward the base of the route. No visible trail, at least I did not see it.

Climb the route and you back to the car. No decent like for Rostrum. Morning sun until 11:30 am and than route in the shade to the end of the day. You can see impressive triangle formed by Reality Check 10c and Plumb line on the aproach.

①. P1 corner crack 5.8 - corner which lead to ledge and traverse right to the alcove. It was section were crack diminished and you need to reach via blank face to the ledge. Probably 5.8 if you 6'2". Not me. one 10+ move, 70 ft.

②. Crux Pitch: P2 begin with overhanging wide hands in the corner and from bottom it looks like  crux would be little  higher where crack be widen to 4-5 inches . In fact this is the crux , but also several hard sections found in the middle of the pitch higher for #5 and #6 size and not define by single move. Long , hard, sustained and constantly changing the size. Geometry of the crack demand from you changing your technique every other foot. We stop in the bottom of wide pod 35 ft short to the end of p2 - adding those 35 ft [10b] later to pitch 3. The full pitch as shown on topo 110ft. 10d

③. P3.Started from the ledge- fists , hands some wide 10a, 110ft

④. P4 - 5.8 slot? it felt more like 10a/b , 120ft

Protection Suggest change

Double from green alien to Blue camalot.
#4 Friend, #4 Cam #5 Friend, #5 Cam, #6 Cam

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