Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell and Kevin Worrall, May 1974
Page Views: 1,784 total · 20/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on Sep 28, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Approach: Walk down from h/w 41 from Elephant's parking lot ~30-40 min. From parking lot you moving right on the faint trail following edge of vertical wall about 7 min and than looking for steep passage down. After that moving down steep slope toward the base of the route. No visible trail, at least I did not see it.
Climb the route and you back to the car. No decent like for Rostrum. Morning sun until 11:30 am and than route in the shade to the end of the day. You can see impressive triangle formed by Reality Check 10c and Plumb line on the aproach.

①. P1 corner crack 5.8 - corner which lead to ledge and traverse right to the alcove. It was section were crack diminished and you need to reach via blank face to the ledge. Probably 5.8 if you 6'2". Not me. one 10+ move, 100 ft.

②. Crux Pitch: P2 begin with overhanging wide hands in the corner and we were thinking that crux would be higher where crack be widen to 4 inches . No crux was higher for #5 and #6 size. long , hard, sustained and constantly changing the size. Geometry of the crack demand from you changing your technique every other foot. We stop in the bottom of wide pod 50 ft short to the end of p2 - adding those 50 ft [10b] later to pitch 3. The full pitch as shown on topo 150ft. 10d

③. P3.Started from the ledge- fists , hands some wide 10a, 150ft

④. P4 - 5.8 slot? it felt more like 10a/b

Protection

Double from green alien to Blue camalot.
#4 Friend, #4 Cam #5 Friend, #5 Cam, #6 Cam

Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The second pitch is probably one of the best pitches of 5.10 crack in the Valley. It's nice to save a couple cams in the 2-3" range for the anchor. Three #3 Camalots wouldn't go unused. The other pitches are also enjoyable and will improve with more traffic/cleaning. Pitch 1 is definitely 5.10 at the top of the corner. It looks like there is also a alternate start to P1 to the right, up a chimney past a bay tree, but it's probably not good quality.

The optimal approach is the NE Face Fixed Line Rappel described on this page
Much faster, no poison oak, and you don't have to carry approach shoes up the climb. Apr 15, 2013