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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Yablonski and Richard Harrison (1977)
Page Views: 206 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 2, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This bold route tackles the steep knobby headwall straight on. Start on the right side at a curving right facing corner. Climb this a short ways until you reach an obvious flake. Pull over the bulge and continue up the flake as the rock deteriorates in quality. At the top of the flake you will reach the crux traverse which is protected by a bolt (replaced in 2015). Step across the face to the left, to gain a shitty seam with a pin in it a few feet up. More hard climbing up the seam leads to basketball size knobs below the overhang. Move left again and establish a belay at the bottom of the crack.

The second pitch is filthy with lichen but spectacular and fun nonetheless. Hand jams and huge juggy knobs lead through the wild overhang until eventually the angle lessens and you gain a chimney/groove which leads the rest of the way to the top. This pitch really needs some more traffic so it cleans up. By rapping in from the top you can forgo the sketchy first pitch and just climb the second; which if it cleans up will probably be one of the best pitches of 5.10a in the universe.

Protection

Pro to 3" with several small wires and your smallest microcams for the 5.10 seam, and extra hand size stuff for the belay and pitch 2.

Photos

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Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
There is also a new line maybe 60ft to the left of Elephantiasis, I spied a bolt above a roof in the knobby stuff. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing this is the upper pitches of Elephant Man (Cedar Wright, Renan Ozturk, 2004) which connects the Worst Error to the summit. Looks fun. Mar 2, 2013