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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: John Bachar and Werner Braun (May, '82)
Page Views: 762 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 18, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is an incredible (and incredibly hard!) trad climb on the west face of Elephant rock. Although a bit crusty with lichen in places, the rock quality is perfect. It follows a thin crack but also utilizes many knobs on the surrounding face, which makes for fascinating climbing on a gently overhanging wall. It starts off the same highest ledge as Hairline, minus crawling out on a tree limb, which makes an approach from below a bit more reasonable. It can also be approached from above however, and for more detailed approach and descent beta read the Hairline page.

The climb starts up the tiny crack in golden rock and doesn't really let off for the first 50ft or so. I'll admit this climb is a bit over my head and I only gave a lame attempt at freeing it before I prussiked past the starting portion. This climb has a bit of a reputation as being both scary and a sandbag, and I don't think it's had more than a few ascents.

Anyways, after a bunch of fierce tips jamming and crimping on knobs, the crack starts to open to accept hand jams and the knobs get bigger as well. Then the angle gradually declines until you're scampering up an easy slab. You move to the left, joining a different crack system. The final obstacle (not really an "obstacle" if you're burly enough to pull the start) is a cool 5.10 traverse on good finger locks when the crack suddenly banks left through a steeper bulge at the end.

Protection

Pro to 2" with plenty of smaller stuff.

Photos

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