Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks (July '65)
Page Views: 306 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Crack of Redemption lies on the far left side of Elephant Rock and is essentially the cleft which parts the main formation from the secondary clifflets to the east. By far the easiest approach is by fixing ropes on the Northeast Face and rappelling in. This leads directly to the base of the climb and it is not necessary to carry approach shoes on the climb. See the NE Face Fixed Line Rappel for more detailed approach beta.

The route is sort of dirty with moss and lichen, but the rock is good and there is not really any bushwhacking. Do not attempt this climb if it has rained recently. Wet moss will make this climb extremely terrifying and difficult.

Pitch 1 climbs an offwidth/squeeze with a couple chockstones which must be passed. The right-hand wall is exceptionally thick with moss. At the top of the pitch is a chockstone roof which is avoided by face climbing around it on the left wall and them mantling onto the ledge. Belay in the alcove with a large bay tree.

Pitch 2 starts in the back of the alcove. Strange chimney moves lead out of the cave to an enjoyable jamcrack up the corner. The start of this pitch was the only part of the climb that was wet when we did it, which made things more difficult in that section. Belay at the top of the jamcrack at another nice ledge in a gully. A short pitch.

Pitch 3 climbs straight up the gully to an intimidating offwidth roof. Luckily there is a tunnel-through in the back which bypasses the roof. Once inside you can either squeeze back out to the edge of the chimney or traverse deeper into before making a tight exit out the top.

Protection

Pro to 4"

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