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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks (July '65)
Page Views: 242 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Crack of Redemption lies on the far left side of Elephant Rock and is essentially the cleft which parts the main formation from the secondary clifflets to the east. By far the easiest approach is by fixing ropes on the Northeast Face and rappelling in. This leads directly to the base of the climb and it is not necessary to carry approach shoes on the climb. See the NE Face Fixed Line Rappel for more detailed approach beta.

The route is sort of dirty with moss and lichen, but the rock is good and there is not really any bushwhacking. Do not attempt this climb if it has rained recently. Wet moss will make this climb extremely terrifying and difficult.

Pitch 1 climbs an offwidth/squeeze with a couple chockstones which must be passed. The right-hand wall is exceptionally thick with moss. At the top of the pitch is a chockstone roof which is avoided by face climbing around it on the left wall and them mantling onto the ledge. Belay in the alcove with a large bay tree.

Pitch 2 starts in the back of the alcove. Strange chimney moves lead out of the cave to an enjoyable jamcrack up the corner. The start of this pitch was the only part of the climb that was wet when we did it, which made things more difficult in that section. Belay at the top of the jamcrack at another nice ledge in a gully. A short pitch.

Pitch 3 climbs straight up the gully to an intimidating offwidth roof. Luckily there is a tunnel-through in the back which bypasses the roof. Once inside you can either squeeze back out to the edge of the chimney or traverse deeper into before making a tight exit out the top.

Protection

Pro to 4"

Photos

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