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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: FA: Bridwell & Chapman - 1973
FFA: Kauk & Bachar - 1975
Page Views: 6,856 total, 50/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Hotline, commonly thought to be the first 5.12 in the Valley (though this is not actually the case), is a fantastic crack system that has the "feel" of a cragging route even though it's technically 7 pitches long. It takes the obvious roof to splitter system on the left side of the main face of the giant pillar on Elephant Rock. This system climbs along the margin of a rectangular orange scar of rock -- many people incorrectly assume that the beautiful splitter of Fatal Mistake which is visible from the road is Hotline, but Hotline is actually just left of this.

P1: Climb up a corner system up and into the obvious roof. Pull this roof at 5.10 and then continue up the crack to a single bolt belay (supplemental gear is available). 5.10. This pitch is easily linked with the next one (recommended) if gear is well-runnered under the roof.

P2: Continue up the crack system on increasingly difficult jams that eventually lead to a stretch of 5.11+ finger stacks. Near the end of the crack, bust a finger-traverse right along a horizontal dike at 5.12 all the way to a nice bolted anchor. There aren't many good options for doing this traverse, unfortunately: If your last bit of pro is before the traverse, you're looking at a swinging fall, but the only other option is to climb up past the traverse, clip a fixed wire, then downclimb to the traverse (strenuous and it makes things scary for the second). A single bolt along the traverse would have made this section much nicer for both free climbing or aiding your way through.

P3: Splitter 5.10 hands forever. Belay at the top of the crack.

P4: Climb a 5.9+ corner -- a short pitch, easily linked with the next.

P5: Climb another 5.9+ corner to a bolted belay.

P6: Option one goes straight up then pulls the strenuous roof at 5.11d. Option two goes up, skirts the roof to the right, and then goes up a very weird chimney system. Somewhat reminiscent of the Wilson Overhang, this interesting pitch requires some contortion and has less than optimal gear, but is significantly less difficult than the roof. However, if you do the roof you can link this pitch into the next one, thus reducing the climb to four pitches.

P7: Climb the short face past a lone bolt to an anchor. The Reid guide gives this 10a, but I thought it was closer to 10c.

Rap the route with two ropes.

Location

Approach: From below park at first pullout on the south side of the road west of the Cookie parking lots. Cross the river just upstream of the pool below the parking area. Although difficult to locate, find your way directly up from where you crossed the Merced. A cairned trail emerges and generally goes up and left and will take you to the base of the Worst Error Pinnacle. Continue to traverse up left and past the amazing Fatal Mistake and look for a jumbled block right facing dihedral with a finger crack splitter going through the roof.

With double 70m ropes, you can get down in 3 raps (7-6, 5-4, 3-ground). I think with double 60s you could do it in 4 raps.

Protection

Double set of cams to #3 Camalot (possibly three #2's). A few wires and slings.

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
What's with all the two rope rap beta?? Easy to rap with 1 70m in 5 raps. 7-6, 5, 4, 3, 2-ground. Although the 3rd pitch (handcrack pitch) is close and my rope, a BD 70m, does seem a tad on the longer side.. but there was some room to spare. Every pitch has a bolted anchor on top except 4th which has slung block. Awesome route! Sep 19, 2017
Tony Lobay  
 
If you are OK puling on gear on the short 12 traverse, the route goes at 10c up through P5! It sounds like P6 also has a short aid section. May 26, 2017
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Great route and worth it for the 3rd pitch alone!

These pitches can be linked 1-2, 4-5, 6-7 (if using .11d 6th pitch variation). We rapped route with double 70m and were able to get down in 3 raps (7-6, 5-4, 3-ground). I think with double 60s you could do it in 4 raps.

Gear: standard rack of doubles to #3 camalot, 1 x #4, (optional: extra #2 camalots)

Approach: From below park at first pullout on the south side of the road west of the cookie parking lots. Cross the river just upstream of the pool below the parking area. Although difficult to locate, find your way directly up from where you crossed the Merced. A cairned trail emerges and generally goes up and left and will take you to the base of the Worst Error Pinnacle. Continue to traverse up left and past the amazing Fatal Mistake and look for a jumbled block right facing dihedral with a fingercrack splitter going through the roof.

Pitch Beta:
The first pitch has some suspect rock and at least one big block that moves. The climbing is fairly well protected just be careful.

The upper part of pitch 2 is all of .11+. You can get good gear without having to go up and clip the fixed nuts if trying to free the .12 and while the moves seem pretty despirate to me the fall would be clean. For now there is a long cord on the fixed pin in the middle of the traverse that would make clipping it possible if freeing too. I ended up french freeing the top of the .ll, clipped a quicklink on the fixed nuts in the crack, then was able to penji over to the slung fixed pin. From there it goes free to the anchor at easy 5th. In short, don't let the .11+/.12 section keep you off this route!

Pitch 3 is long, splitter, sustained at easy 5.10, and probably the best handcrack in the Valley. Judiciously place your #2 camalots or bring extras. Need I say more.

Pitches 4-5 are easily linked and are typical valley physical 5.9.

Pitch 6 .11d variation is mostly 5.10a with a hard but well protected crux. Go for it!

Pitch 7 slab has one bolt that may be difficult to reach from the good feet for shorter climbers. Hard climbing eases a body length above the bolt but stays spicy enough to keep your attention since there is no pro till just below the anchor. Jan 20, 2015
Ryan K.
 
Ryan K.  
 
It is possible to clip a fixed nut on pitch two, swing over to a fixed pin, and then free climb a few easy 5th class moves to anchor.

We used all four #2 C4s we had on pitch three.

Next time I will bring an old #3.5 C4 or new #4 C4 for the start of pitch four. As described already, pitches 4 and 5 link with a 70. This is one of the best 5.9 pitches I've climbed.

The 10.d pitch six is great and takes as much gear as you want to place. I'm not sure why the OP states "less than optimal gear". You can sew it up. Go right side in until the your footholds disappear, then bust a move! There's a convenient brass nut at the crux for now. Oct 18, 2014
Whatever it was, Henry barber put it up. Fish crack? Sep 9, 2014
So, what Was, the first fivetwelve in Yosemite? Sep 8, 2014
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
I checked the relics on top of the chimney- they still can not be removed by hands. [ this is not Hotline bolts, but top bolts of WorstError Left side]
Also first time checked 10d bombay flare second to last pitch.
Rare type of climbing and very brutal.
You basically paste your knee at one wall and feet and shoulders on opposite one. But configuration of the flare, its angle and absence of holds/features on the walls make upper progress very difficult. And when you move one knee up you feel excruciating pain on the other even with knee pads. The pitch is relatively short , but take a lot of skin away. There is opportunity for good gear placement in the corner, but it is not continues line and it has some gaps.
And take rope gun for last pitch with now has new bolt Aug 28, 2012
Thanks Josh T. for taking care of those last 3 bolts- they're bomber now.

Then go check out the relics at the top of the chimney.


Does anyone really think that traverse is .12a? Sep 5, 2009
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
You can do this approach to this climb from Hw.41 any time of the year. It is harder, longer, but you do not need to wait low water in Merced river. Hot Line in the shade up to 3pm.
p1 - 90 ft, p2-40ft ,p3- 130ft ,p4-70 ft, p5 80ft Apr 27, 2009
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I aided the 12 a section.

A fantastic route. The bolts on the last pitch are old button heads. If one blows you're in real trouble. Mar 30, 2008
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Is it possible to bypass free climbing of P2 - 11+ crack and of P3 - 5.12 traverse by aiding end of p2 and than make a tension traverse to beginning of P3 to 5.10 hand splitter?
Or/And the other option available - to rappel from top of Pink Dream to beginning of Hotline p3? Nov 1, 2007